Barbara Zangerl from Vorarlberg reached a long cherished goal last Sunday. She climbed Speed intégrale on the Voralpsee - her first 9a. We spoke to Babsi about her latest ascent.
When did you start to configure speed and how many attempts did the route cost you?
So I seriously set the goal for the route this year at the end of March. But I was already in the meantime in the route and tried the first hard moves. My focus was mostly on alpine climbing and less on sport climbing. Thus, I trained most of the time at Voralpsee by climbing the "easier" routes again and again to get a good fitness for the Alpine. I have tried about speed intégrale about 20.
You have the route four days before your 30. Birthday dotted. Was it a kind of proof that you can still climb hard even in old age?
Ahahah looks like this. I am still in my 20ern.
What was different about the redpoint ascent compared to previous attempts?
I had zero expectations and was also quite tired from night shifts. But I felt stronger on the route than usual. That day I got to the grid in the middle for the first time. After my second attempt, I paused for a long time - because of my killer pump. I thought it would stay with me for the next few days, my forearms would be like that. Then I wanted to do a training GO two hours later and that was a meeeega fight to the deflector. I had motivated ground staff who yelled at me to the top.
How does it feel to be in the club of 9a climbers?
For me it was a big goal to climb 9a once. Feels good. And not only because of the degree, but because the route is really a pearl.
You seem to like the routes of Beat Kammerlander.
Yes, routes like Principle hope, Speed, Silver Vulture or Infinite History are all routes that are incredibly beautiful and unique. These are real milestones! Great respect the beat. Since he has done really impressive pioneering work.
Barbara Zangerl in the La Sportiva video about speed on Voralpsee
Note: The video was shot before Barbara's redpoint walk.
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Credits: pictures Jacopo Larcher and Simone Colombo