News Switzerland

"Traversing the glacier without a rope was a misjudgment"

Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel and Carlos Molina climbed a new route on the north face of the Nesthorn called The Cuckoo's Nest. On the way back they fell into a crevasse, but luckily they were not injured. A report by Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel.

Siara Fabbri and Nicolai Uznik in the mood to walk

The American Siara Fabbri and the Austrian Nicolai Uznik take advantage of the perfect conditions in the Swiss southern canton of Ticino for tough bouldering climbs.

Schäli and von Känel open new route in Bergell | Methadone

The Swiss alpinists Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel succeeded in climbing a new route through the north face of the Sciora Dafora in the Bergell. The topo of the route Methadone (M5+, 800m, Trad) can be found at the end of the article.

Schubert and Pilz climb to victory in record time | Red Bull Dual Ascent

Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert won the Red Bull Dual Ascent 2024 with ease. Here are the pictures and the video replay.

Showdown in the Kraftreaktor Lenzburg: Swiss Championship Lead

Today, Saturday, things are really heating up again at this year's Swiss Championships in the Kraftreaktor Lenzburg. In addition to the U18 and Elite, the...
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Glatthard's speed solo on the Salbit Westgrat: What's behind it | Interview

In the interview, Yannick Glatthard talks about his speed solo on the Salbit Westgrat and the importance and limitations of this form of climbing.

“This was the toughest renovation of all”

Dani Furrer and Ruedi Bunschi have renovated the Salbit West Ridge. You can find out what the challenges were in the following report.

Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour

Andy Steindl conquers the Spaghetti Tour solo in an incredible 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, setting a new record.
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Crack in the Magic Wood | Municipality and IG Magic Wood in dispute

The waves are rising in the Magic Wood. We met the mayor and the president of IG Magic Wood for a discussion.

Marco Müller climbs L'isola che non c'è | Short interview

Marco Müller climbs the 9a route L'isola che non c'è near Amden. We spoke to Müller about the inspection.

Parking and overnight stay in Chironico | Rules 2024

Parking fees have been charged in Chironico since the beginning of the year. You can also spend the night in 3 signposted park areas for a fee.

Access to Bouldering Area Val Bavona at risk

There is a risk of partial access bans in the popular bouldering area of ​​Val Bavona. New rules are intended to defuse the conflict.

Again: Swiss glaciers are melting rapidly | 2023

The Swiss glaciers are melting faster and faster. They have experienced the second worst summer for their existence since measurements began.

Full length documentary "Tribute to Failure" available

The documentary «Tribute to Failure» is available. It is about Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist, Jonas Schild and Andy Schnarf.

Yannick Glatthard climbs 5 Grimsel classic rope solo

Yannick Glatthard climbs 5 Grimsel classic rope solo. In this personal report and in the video, Glatthard presents his project.

Petra Klingler resigns from the competition

Petra Klingler resigns from the competition. She will contest her last World Cup in front of her home crowd in Bern.

In the 8C(+) frenzy: Aidan Roberts opens The Lions Share

Briton Aidan Roberts announces the first ascent of a new boulder line in Brione, Ticino. He rates the boulder The Lions Share with 8C +.

Double success for Giuliano Cameroni: Bouldered 8B+ twice in one day

Two projects by Giuliano Cameroni fell within a day - both "First Go". Fight Club and Ninjutsu, both rated 8B+.

Massive rockfall near Kandersteg

A large rock fall occurred on a rock face on the Almenalp on Thursday. According to the canton police, no one was injured.

8C+ first ascent in Ticino: Yannick Flohé boulders Return of the Dreamtime

German professional climber Yannick Flohé opens a new difficult line on the Dreamtime block in Cresciano. The first ascent called Return of the Dreamtime rated Flohé with 8C +.

Moritz Welt cracks Dreamtime (8c) within a short time

Moritz Welt makes short work of Dreamtime (8c) and climbs the Cresciano classic in two sessions. In Brione, the strong German also secures a repeat of the 8B boulder Amber.

Simon Lorenzi climbs Raboutou's Alphane (9A)

The strong Belgian Simon Lorenzi secures an inspection of Alphane. This makes the 25-year-old the third climber this year to repeat Shawn Raboutou's line in Chironico since the first ascent in April.

Will Bosi flashes Dagger (8B/+) and almost Dreamtime (8C)

Will Bosi paid a visit to the Bouldering Mecca Cresciano in Ticino and let off steam on the Dreamtime block: within one day he flashed The Dagger (8B/+) and climbed Dreamtime (8C) on the fourth attempt.

Who is the best climbing team? We tested 6 professionals

We were on the road again, namely at the Red Bull Dual Ascent. As part of this superlative event, we have launched our own competition. We wanted to find out which climbing team works best off the face. Find out more in the latest video on Actiontalk TV.

Prosecutors warn against used avalanche backpacks, Mammut counters

In January 2021, a mountain guide died in an avalanche in the Siviez/Nendaz region. The public prosecutor of the canton of Valais subsequently commissioned a judicial report and is now warning of used Mammut Airbag 3.0 Light Protection 2017 avalanche backpacks. The manufacturer, Mammut, considers the test results to be misleading and has issued a statement.

Masses of new boulders on the Furka - Kim Marschner

Kim Marschner has given the Furka Pass rows of impressive boulders. He shows an excerpt of it in this video.

Will Bosi climbs Alphane (9A) | degree confirmed?

Scot Will Bosi climbs the 9A boulder Alphane in Chironico. Bosi is reluctant to comment on the level of difficulty of the line.

New bouldering hall Minimum Leutsch opens on November 5th

On November 05.11.22th, 114, the city's second minimum bouldering hall opened in Zurich. The Minimum Leutsch offers 600 boulders spread over an area of ​​2 mXNUMX.

Dispute on the glacier: Tons of non-woven cover causes red heads | How is Elnaz Rekabi?

In the twenty-fifth issue of BETA, we look at the controversial cover fleece on the Rhone Glacier. We also take a closer look at the case of Iranian sport climber Elnaz Rekabi.

That says the lawyer representing the operators of the glacier ice grotto

For years, fleece was laid out on the Rhone Glacier to protect an ice grotto. A case has now been opened. That's what the lawyer says.

News

"I've found my dream boulder" | Jana Svecova ticks Oslo's hardest boulder

Czech 8C boulderer Jana Svecova has managed the hardest boulder in Oslo with Mild Abuse of Terminology (8B+).

Ultralight climbing harness tested: Petzl Whisper

If I'm honest, I was immediately impressed with the Whisper climbing harness the first time I put it on. The feeling? Almost as if I wasn't wearing a harness at all. For me, as someone who often hikes in the Alps, every gram counts – and at just 170 g (size M), this harness has really impressed me on long alpine tours.
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More helps more? | Why "climbing more" doesn't make you stronger faster

Some swear by training plans, others prefer to improve by spending as much time on the wall as possible. One myth is particularly persistent: If you simply climb a lot, you'll get stronger faster, even without targeted training.
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Wide Boyz bite their teeth on the Swiss trad route

Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker tackled the Hanuman route in Brigerbad during a trip to Switzerland. This video shows how the pair planned the route and their tactics.

Connor Herson climbs 8c classic crack with only one boot

Connor Herson, who already has classics like Beth Rodden's Meltdown (8c+) and Ron Kauk's Magic Line (8c+) on his to-do list, has successfully climbed Stranger than Fiction (8c), one of the hardest cracks in the USA. Herson even took off his right climbing shoe to complete the ascent.