Chris Sharma (41) with the hardest first ascent of his life: Sleeping Lion (9b +)

Almost exactly ten years after he was able to climb his first 9b+ route with La Dura Dura, Chris Sharma strikes again: In Siurana he manages the first ascent of Sleeping Lion (9b+). With this new Kingline, the 41-year-old American puts the icing on the cake of his long climbing career.

Even after decades in the climbing business, he still belongs to the world class: the American climbing superstar, Spaniard by choice and climbing gym owner Chris Sharma has in siurana his project sleeping lion freed. The route, rated 9b+, is - if the grade is confirmed - the most difficult first ascent of the 41-year-old and one of the toughest sport climbing routes in the world.

"Sleeping Lion was more of a personal goal, to prove to myself that I could get back to that level."

Chris Sharma

Sleeping Lion (9b+): New kingline from Siurana

Sharma's new route Sleeping Lion is in the sector The pati, not far from other high-end classics such as La Rambla or La Reina Mora. The American climbing professional began to work intensively on his project in autumn 2021 (see video below), but did not manage to clip the deflector until Tuesday, March 28, 2023.

Sleeping Lion has 54 moves in total and consists of several sustained sections with poor rest points. A particularly intense section of the Mega Line is 35 moves long and must be completed non-stop, according to Sharma. You can only reach into the magnesium at three points.

Icing on Sharma's climbing career

If future repeaters confirm the proposed grade of 9b+, this would make Sleeping Lion the most difficult first ascent of Chris Sharma's entire climbing career. This is all the more impressive given that the 41-year-old has consistently been the most difficult for more than two decades routes and Boulder first ascent and has had a significant impact on the development of climbing.

"Sleeping Lion is one of the best routes I've ever set up."

Chris Sharma

Video: Chris Sharma projects Sleeping Lion in Siurana

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture EpicTV Spain

News

Building snow anchors: How it works

Today the specialists at the Black Diamond QC Lab will show you what you should pay attention to when building a snow anchor.

Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour

Andy Steindl conquers the Spaghetti Tour solo in an incredible 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, setting a new record.
00:16:23

Nina Caprez: That was the biggest challenge in my life | Interview

At the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in early July, we had the opportunity to have an in-depth conversation with Swiss professional climber Nina Caprez. What influence did the birth of her daughter Lia have on her life as a professional? Which moments were particularly challenging, which were particularly enriching?

Climbing at the Olympics: How the competition format works in Paris

In less than a month, the fight for medals will begin at the Olympic Games in Paris: this is how the competition format works.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Building snow anchors: How it works

Today the specialists at the Black Diamond QC Lab will show you what you should pay attention to when building a snow anchor.

Andy Steindl with new record of the Spaghetti Tour

Andy Steindl conquers the Spaghetti Tour solo in an incredible 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, setting a new record.
00:16:23

Nina Caprez: That was the biggest challenge in my life | Interview

At the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in early July, we had the opportunity to have an in-depth conversation with Swiss professional climber Nina Caprez. What influence did the birth of her daughter Lia have on her life as a professional? Which moments were particularly challenging, which were particularly enriching?