Dani Arnold on his speed record at the big battlements

At the beginning of the month, Swiss professional alpinist Dani Arnold set a new speed record at the Great Pinnacle. In just 46 minutes and 30 seconds, he defeated the 550 meter high wall. Dani Arnold reports on LACRUX why it was not all about the record time at the ascent.

A guest post by Dani Arnold

“This is not just another quick ascent for me! No, it means a lot more to me. Because shortly before that I was not at all fit for climbing. The expedition on my first eight-thousander, Broad Peak, made me tired and my climbing level sank to a low point!

On the other hand, this project was very challenging to undercut with the time of the old record of 1h 5min. A while ago I thought that I probably wouldn't be able to do this. My many other speed ascents in recent years, such as the Grandes Jorasses North Face (Walker pillars), but gave me self-confidence and the necessary experience.

"In terms of climbing, I was at a rock bottom."

Dani Arnold

I would not have thought that it would work out in such a short time. I was surprised myself and of course I was very happy. A photographer was there for the inspection on September 5, 2019. That was very important to me because I wanted to use pictures, time lapse and film to prove that everything was right. In order to show the story completely, it was necessary to film another day in the route. I no longer climbed the entire route without a rope and of course never as fast again. But I think it was worth the effort.

Of course, I am very satisfied with the whole project. Climbing such an imposing and steep wall without rope, without safety and so fast is indescribable. But it's not just about the technical, every trip to the Dolomites I have always met new, super cute people.

"It wasn't just about the technical."


Dani Arnold

Having so many sympathetic friends around the world is worth at least as much as my records. That is why I would like to thank everyone here. Each and every one of them contributed to the whole and without them I would not have made it. Nature, the mountains and being outside connect people and I would like to thank you again for every encounter. "

- Dani Arnold

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Credits: Cover Picture Quattro Media / Mammoth, Text Dani Arnold

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