After Aidan Roberts, the strong Scot Will Bosi secures the second repetition of the 9A boulder Alphane in Chironico. Bosi is reluctant to comment on the level of difficulty of the line.
Will Bosi is only the third climber to solve one of the most difficult bouldering problems in the world: alphanes (9A). The madness line in Chironico was in early April 2020 by Shawn Raboutou first ascent and in October from Aidan Roberts repeated. Will Bosi needed a total of twelve sessions to decipher Alphane's movements and processes.
Video: Will Bosi's first attempts to climb Alphane
Is Alphane 9A?
With top lines like Alphane, which are at the highest limit of the climbing scale, the assessment of the first repeaters is always of particular interest: how do they rate the boulder and what do they say about the assessment suggestion of the first climber?
Aidan Roberts, who was the first to repeat the boulder, confirmed the grade 9A. Alphane is very consistent in difficulty, he told Climbing Magazine. The crux presented the very complex and physical transitions that required the body to remain coordinated at all times under great stress.
Will Bosi seems to be much more unsure about the rating. After successfully climbing Alphane, he commented to Lattice Training that his first ascent had changed Honey badger (8C+, Lacrux reported) felt more challenging for him personally.
However, the Briton also emphasizes that it was difficult for him to propose a grade back then, since Honey Badger was his first boulder at this level. «Is Alphane 9A? To be honest, I don't know, and when I have more experience climbing at this level, I might have a more nuanced opinion," says Bosi. In any case, Alphane is a fantastic line and he is excited to see how future repeaters rate the line.
Possible reasons for the fast ascents of Alphane
You don't see too often that a 9A boulder has already been repeated twice half a year after the first ascent. Burden of Dreams, 2016 from Nalle Hukkataival opened as well Daniel Wood Return of the Sleepwalker from 2021 are still waiting for a repeat.
When asked about this point, called first climbers Shawn Raboutou compared to Lacrux several reasons that favor a quick repetition. Alphane is not only easy and quick to reach - in contrast to the two 9A boulders mentioned above - but often also has good conditions. The boulder is protected from rain and the temperatures under the gigantic block are often very pleasant. In addition, according to Raboutou, Alphane is relatively easy on the fingers and you can do long sessions accordingly.
That might interest you
- Aidan Roberts climbs 9A boulder Alphane | Chironico
- Honey Badger (8C +): Will Bosi's hardest boulder first ascent | Video
- Anak Verhoeven, Will Bosi & Sasha DiGiulian in an interview about injuries, sports careers, entrepreneurship
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Credits: Cover picture Sam Pratt