Will Bosi climbs Alphane (9A) | degree confirmed?

After Aidan Roberts, the strong Scot Will Bosi secures the second repetition of the 9A boulder Alphane in Chironico. Bosi is reluctant to comment on the level of difficulty of the line.

Will Bosi is only the third climber to solve one of the most difficult bouldering problems in the world: alphanes (9A). The madness line in Chironico was in early April 2020 by Shawn Raboutou first ascent and in October from Aidan Roberts repeated. Will Bosi needed a total of twelve sessions to decipher Alphane's movements and processes.

Video: Will Bosi's first attempts to climb Alphane

Is Alphane 9A?

With top lines like Alphane, which are at the highest limit of the climbing scale, the assessment of the first repeaters is always of particular interest: how do they rate the boulder and what do they say about the assessment suggestion of the first climber?

Aidan Roberts, who was the first to repeat the boulder, confirmed the grade 9A. Alphane is very consistent in difficulty, he told Climbing Magazine. The crux presented the very complex and physical transitions that required the body to remain coordinated at all times under great stress.

Aidan Roberts confirmed grade 9A after the first repeat of Alphane. Image: Sam Pratt
Aidan Roberts confirmed grade 9A after the first repeat of Alphane. Picture: Sam Pratt

Will Bosi seems to be much more unsure about the rating. After successfully climbing Alphane, he commented to Lattice Training that his first ascent had changed Honey badger (8C+, Lacrux reported) felt more challenging for him personally.

"At the top of the sport of climbing, grading is much more difficult as the boundaries are much narrower and personal strengths and preferences come into play."

Will Bosi

However, the Briton also emphasizes that it was difficult for him to propose a grade back then, since Honey Badger was his first boulder at this level. «Is Alphane 9A? To be honest, I don't know, and when I have more experience climbing at this level, I might have a more nuanced opinion," says Bosi. In any case, Alphane is a fantastic line and he is excited to see how future repeaters rate the line.

«Is Alphane 9A? To be honest, I don't know."

Will Bosi
Happy about the third ascent of Alphane in Chironico: Will Bosi. Image: Sam Pratt
Happy about the third ascent of Alphane in Chironico: Will Bosi. Picture: Sam Pratt

Possible reasons for the fast ascents of Alphane

You don't see too often that a 9A boulder has already been repeated twice half a year after the first ascent. Burden of Dreams, 2016 from Nalle Hukkataival opened as well Daniel Wood Return of the Sleepwalker from 2021 are still waiting for a repeat.

When asked about this point, called first climbers Shawn Raboutou compared to Lacrux several reasons that favor a quick repetition. Alphane is not only easy and quick to reach - in contrast to the two 9A boulders mentioned above - but often also has good conditions. The boulder is protected from rain and the temperatures under the gigantic block are often very pleasant. In addition, according to Raboutou, Alphane is relatively easy on the fingers and you can do long sessions accordingly.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Sam Pratt

News

Training despite an annular ligament injury

Ring ligament injury: In this video, Dave MacLeod explains what an adapted training session on the bouldering wall can look like.

Ondra during the 9a onsight attempt: final stop for grip breakout

This video shows Adam Ondra making a solid 9a onsight attempt. But when the handle breaks, it comes to an abrupt end.

Spanish Kinglines repeated

Jorg Verhoeven, Gabriele Moroni and Leo Ketil Bøe repeat classics of the 9th French degree in Siurana, Oliana and Margalef.

5th Petzl Climbing Festival Frankenjura 2024 | Info & program

Save the Date: from May 30th to June 2nd, 2024, the Frankenjura climbing festival is going into its fifth round in idyllic Königstein.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Training despite an annular ligament injury

Ring ligament injury: In this video, Dave MacLeod explains what an adapted training session on the bouldering wall can look like.

Ondra during the 9a onsight attempt: final stop for grip breakout

This video shows Adam Ondra making a solid 9a onsight attempt. But when the handle breaks, it comes to an abrupt end.

Spanish Kinglines repeated

Jorg Verhoeven, Gabriele Moroni and Leo Ketil Bøe repeat classics of the 9th French degree in Siurana, Oliana and Margalef.