Bouldering in summer: 5 high alpine areas

During the hot summer months, bouldering at lower altitudes is hardly possible. Then it's time to get on the passes. We show you five high alpine bouldering areas in Switzerland, where you will find very good conditions for bouldering in midsummer.

A contribution by Bächli Bergsport

A meteorological rule of thumb states that the temperature decreases by 100 degree for every 1 meters of altitude. Is it in the Bouldering Mecca in Ticino? Cresciano For example, 30 degrees hot, the 1700 meters higher Gotthard Pass have pleasant conditions with 13 degrees.

This brings us to the topic: bouldering in summer. With the Gotthard, Nufenen, Furka, Susten and Grimsel passes, we present five high-alpine bouldering areas that are worthwhile destinations on hot days.

5 high alpine bouldering areas for hot days


Gotthard pass

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Gotthard Pass: world-class bouldering lines in the best surroundings. (Picture: Kim Marschner)

With over 600 problems, the Gotthard Pass is now one of the largest areas in the Alps. It is hardly surprising that the barren and mystical high mountain valley with its glacier-polished granite blocks and small lakes has become a hotspot in the summer months - after all, you can find a suitable boulder for just about every level of difficulty.

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The blocks are widely spread, grouped in smaller sectors. The climbing is mostly technical, but still requires good finger strength. The Gotthard Pass is generally closed from October to June.

Gotthard Pass area information

  • Best Season: June to September
  • Altitude: 1900 to 2200 meters above sea level
  • Boulders: 603 problems
The Petzl Cirro crash pad is a loyal companion on boulder trips.

Nufenen Pass

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Bouldering area Nufenenpass: Small but nice and with short ascents. (Picture Harald Röker/Gebro-Verlag)

The Nufenen Pass connects Ticino with the Rhone Valley and, at 2478 meters, is the highest Swiss Alpine crossing. The lower-lying area not far from the municipality of Ulrichen in Obergoms is of interest to boulderers.

On the slopes of the Aegina Valley there is a small but fine bouldering area with a short approach and great jumping area. Especially when uncertain weather conditions prevail on the high passes, this area can be an exciting alternative.

Nufenenpass area information

  • Best Season: June to September
  • Altitude: 1650 meters above sea level
  • Boulders: 46 problems

Furka Pass

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A group of motivated climbers have opened over 400 lines on the Furka Pass.

At the Furka Pass, countless excellent bouldering problems slumber in high alpine surroundings at up to 2600 m above sea level and are waiting for hungry repeaters. Since 2014, a motivated group of climbers from the Lucerne area who are enthusiastic about bouldering have been opening up new blocks and sectors again and again.

In 2019 Harald Röker joined the development group at his invitation and thanks to great, inspiring days together with his Swiss friends, the number of problems climbed doubled to 400 lines from very easy to 8B.

Furka Pass area information

  • Best Season: June to September
  • Altitude: 2200 to 2650 meters above sea level
  • Boulders: 399 problems
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Sustenpass

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Stefan Anreiter during the inspection of the boulder Rêve de faire" (8A+/B) at the Sustenpass. (Pic N. Anouk)

The Susten Pass was one of the first high-alpine bouldering areas that gained notoriety beyond Switzerland. The boom of the 90s has now subsided somewhat, which has the positive side effect that you often only have to share the grandiose mountain environment of the Urner Alps with a few competitors.

On the Susten Pass, gneiss blocks of all levels of difficulty await climbers. Its central location and the straight lines around the Sustenbrüggli restaurant still make the area worth a visit in the summer months.

Area information Sustenpass

  • Best Season: June to October
  • Altitude: 2000 meters above sea level
  • Boulders: 245 problems

Grimselpass

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Top line on the Grimsel Pass: Diamant (7A+). Picture Gebro-Verlag

Another worthwhile summer destination for all bouldering enthusiasts is the Grimsel Pass with its numerous granite boulders. Sectors such as Schwarzbrunnenbrücke, Elfe, Men at Work or Kristallweg are at an altitude of 1 to 000 meters above sea level and offer around 1 boulder lines.

The most important blocks are presented in the bouldering guide Swiss Blocs by Gebro-Verlag. But if you walk through the area with open eyes, you will surely find many other lines that have already been developed.

Area information Grimsel Pass

  • Best Season: June to September
  • Altitude: 1000 to 1400 meters above sea level
  • Boulders: 209 problems

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Credits: Cover picture Kim Marschner

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