Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and confirms grade

Will Bosi is unstoppable: In the Red Rocks he secures the first repeat of Return of the Sleepwalker (9A). The 25-year-old from Edinburgh is the first climber with three confirmed 9A boulders to his credit.

It was something of a success with announcement: After Will Bosi Although he was able to climb Sleepwalker in just three sessions, it was only a matter of time before he climbed the sit-down start first climbed by Daniel Woods Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) would be able to crack. In the end, it took nine more sessions before Will Bosi could repeat America's first 9A boulder.

The fact that I was able to climb Sleepwalker in three days completely blew me away and at the same time made me pretty confident that I could also do Return of the Sleepwalker.

Will Bosi

With little break to climb through

In the last session before the climb everything came together and he was very confident, says Will Bosi. However, given the weather forecast, there was only one day of rest possible. "I still felt pretty tired and wasn't sure whether I should try it."

Rectangle_Knatsch in Magic Wood

The first attempt went perfectly until the sloper. But then I completely botched the next move to the slot and almost fell out.

Will Bosi
Everything went according to plan up to this point: Will Bosi on the sloper during the second ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker. Image: Image: Teresa Coimbra
Everything went according to plan up to this point: Will Bosi on the sloper during the second ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker. Image: Image: Teresa Coimbra

“Somehow I managed to recover and was able to execute the next hard move perfectly.” He then had to take a minute to recover from this moment of shock at the solid hold before getting out.

Bosi confirms Return of the Sleepwalker difficulty level

After Will Bosi for Sleepwalker a downgrade to 8C suggested, the climbing community waited anxiously to see whether he would also correct Daniel Woods' low start downwards. It is not so. He still believes that Sleepwalker is 8C, "but the seated start adds enough difficulty for a 9A."

Compared to other 9A boulders I've done, I think Return of the Sleepwalker is on the lower end of difficulty.

Will Bosi

Question mark behind Alphane

Burden of Dreams is harder, but also a completely different style, says Bosi. However, Return of the Sleepwalker is more difficult than alphanes. This statement from the Scot is exciting in that he hesitated to confirm the grade after climbing Alphane and is now pointing in the same direction again.

If Return of the Sleepwalker is low-end 9A and still harder than Alphane, how heavy is Alphane? According to the 25-year-old, it is very difficult to judge such nuances, especially on routes that differ greatly in style.

At the moment I am very uncertain about the distinction between 8C+ and 9A and I think it will take some time and a broader consensus from climbers who are at this level to come to a good conclusion.

Will Bosi
With Sleepwalker and Return of the Sleepwalker, Will Bosi cracks two of the hardest boulders in the United States in one climbing trip. Image: Teresa Coimbra
With Sleepwalker and Return of the Sleepwalker, Will Bosi cracks two of the hardest boulders in the United States in one climbing trip. Image: Teresa Coimbra

Third 9A Boulder

With his ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker, Will Bosi draws level with Simon Lorenzi when it comes to the number of boulders with the highest level of difficulty. Although, if you look closely, Bosi is still a step ahead, especially since his three boulders – Alphane, Burden of Dreams and Return of the Sleepwalker – have all been confirmed to be grade 9A. At Lorenzi's line Soudain Seul The consensus regarding the level of difficulty is not yet entirely clear.

Next Step: Excalibur or Terranova

Anyone who thinks that Will Bosi is resting on his laurels after this success is wrong. The strong Scot plans to either go to Arco to finish Stefano Ghisolfi's Excalibur or continue working on Terranova in Brno.

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Credits: Cover image Teresa Coimbra

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