Jakob Schubert struggles with problems with his biceps tendon. Since his detour to Céüse and checking out the 9c-Route bibliography, the complaints have been acute. You can find out more about this and what role chess plays in the personal report by the Austrian climbing professional.
A report by Jakob Schubert
If the Austrian State Climbing Championships take place from Wednesday to Saturday this week, I will forego the bouldering and combination competition due to a biceps tendon overload in my right arm including a small tear and only start the lead on Friday.
It's like a bewitched year this year - first the lockdown, the Olympic Games are postponed and now at the end of summer I can't climb all disciplines at the national championships due to an acute inflammation. At the national level, bouldering is always the most fun for me and speed is the discipline where I see the greatest development potential.
As a consolation I can at least screw in the bouldering competition, watch the route setters closely and get a first insight into these processes.
I'm really looking forward to that! So I'm very close and can still protect my arm.
With fast exertion - typical for bouldering and speed - the pain is most intense and it is especially the days after a competition when the pain peaks from the previous day are really noticeable.
It is not always the most direct move that leads to the goal.
We know the classic golf or tennis elbow - this is how you can imagine the pain that sits directly at the attachment of the biceps tendon in the elbow bend. Since my trip to Ceüse and first getting to know Alex Megos' 9c route Bibliography this handicap is acute and I try to use shock wave therapy, physiotherapy and targeted exercises to promote the removal of fluid in the inflammation area.
Jakob Schubert in an interview about the route bibliography
On the one hand, it is now important to sit a little more still in order to support the healing process; on the other hand, the tendon must know what it has to withstand and should also be challenged regularly in this phase.
In chess, one would speak of a classic stalemate. Or is it castling?
I have just (re-) discovered my joy in chess and I find it fascinating to see how inexhaustible the room for improvement seems to be. I am certainly an ambitious person, that also sets me apart as an athlete, and chess is one of the most complex games that I have seen in my life.
In fact, I don't play that much, I just look at different openings and moves, just to get better.
Even as a child, I was very fond of games where you have to think strategically ahead.
In a certain way there are certainly one or the other parallel to climbing and in my current situation the decision regarding the ÖM is based on a strategic move towards longer-term planning. I don't want to and can't take the risk that the tear will turn into a demolition and that I will run around like Popeye. I have to make the best use of the time available because 2021 will be a tough year - hopefully!
The travel chessboard is waiting at least as much to be used worldwide as I am!
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Credits: Cover picture Moritz lover