Jacob Cook, Hayden Jamieson and Will Sharp complete the first free ascent of the 1000 meter route Picaflor on Cerro Capicua in Chile's Cochamó Valley. In one continuous In a 7-day push, they freed all 25 pitches of the Aid route from 2016, with each team member climbing all pitches.
With its wall height of around 1200 meters Cerro Capicua a huge phenomenon in Cochamó. In February 2016, Tom Ireson, Martin Håskjold Larsen, Clare Mains, Barry Smith and Fernando Virot made the first ascent of a fairly direct line through its steep west face: Hummingbird. It was a few weeks ago Hayden Jamieson, JacobCook and Will Sharp managed to climb the route completely free for the first time.
The route offers very endurance climbing up to 8a+ and, in my opinion, is on a par with some of the best big wall free climbing in the world.
JacobCook
Success on the second attempt
Hayden Jamieson had already attempted to free climb Picaflor in 2022. Together with Bronwyn Hodgins, Danford Jooste and Tyler Karow, he almost succeeded - if it hadn't been for that one pitch.
Picaflor offers difficulties up to 8a+ and a key pitch that Hayden Jamieson describes as a “steep, cryptic and bare granite slab”. Bigwall veteran Jacob Cook was immediately drawn to this challenge and took part in the second attempt. Likewise Will Sharp.
The trio spent seven days on the 1000 meter wall after almost a month of preparation. Jacob Cook summarizes the first free ascent of Picaflor as follows: “Lots of long days, an insane amount of work and some of the most complicated and subtle granite climbing of my life.”
We freed Picaflor! A month of preparation in the jungle, followed by an intense 7-day final push on the 1000m wall.
JacobCook
Team spirit, support and personal development
The British big wall climber and mathematician sees the success of the successful free ascent primarily in the team spirit: “We laughed and joked endlessly and at the same time had deep trust and great support for each other and many interesting conversations.”
It was cool to support Hayden Jamieson. After all, he was the first to believe strongly enough that Picaflor could be climbed freely. “After freeing all but one “impossible” pitch two years ago, it took a lot of courage to plan and carry out a second trip.”
In addition, this trip also meant a lot to him personally, says Jacob Cook. «To my great surprise, it felt like I was climbing a step better than ever before. Which is rare after 28 years in sport!”
Somehow I felt more focused, more in control and more present in my body. It's amazing how performance can stagnate for years and suddenly skyrocket for no apparent reason.
JacobCook
Crazy idea becomes reality
Even though Picaflor's first free ascent was some time ago, it still feels surreal for him, says Hayden Jamieson. “Two weeks have passed now and I keep having to pinch myself, but I feel content and relaxed – ready for the next chapter.”
This idea had been floating around in his head since January 2017. For the past two years, Hayden Jamieson has done everything he can to make it a reality.
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Credits: Cover picture JacobCook