Ticino big wall as a dress rehearsal for Patagonia adventures

The Italian professional climber Matteo Della Bordella and his rope partner Giacomo Mauri rushed through the Parete d'Osogna, which is over 1000 meters high, in Ticino. Climbing mostly simultaneously, they climbed Apriti Cielo (7b+), one of the longest alpine sport climbs in Switzerland with 36 pitches, in 8 hours and 15 minutes.

When you read these lines, the two Italian climbers are sitting Matteo Della Bordella and Giacomo Mauri already on the plane to Patagonia. This also eliminates the question of where the long climbing days of the past few weeks should lead. Because next to Apriti Cielo in the Parete d'Osogna The two climbed Magic Rampit (410m, 7b) and Vai Col Blues (8SL, 7c+) on the same day at Pizzo d'Eus two weeks earlier.

Speed ​​and efficiency for your upcoming climbing trip

The main thing was to practice simultaneous climbing, explains Matteo Della Bordella.

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“These ascents were our preparation to be able to climb quickly and efficiently in the mountains of Patagonia.”

Matteo Della Bordella

In this sense, Apriti Cielo in the big wall near Osogna was the perfect main rehearsal. They have never climbed the 1150 meter long route by Marco Bassi and Fabrizio Fratagnoli from 2007. «After an auction on the approach, we started and climbed the route on the running rope in 7 pitches. After 8 hours and 15 minutes we were at the top."

With 36 rope lengths and 1150 meters of climbing, the Apriti Cielo in the Parete d'Osogna in Ticino is a veritable big wall. Image: Matteo Della Bordella
With 36 rope lengths and 1150 meters of climbing, Apriti Cielo in the Parete d'Osogna in Ticino is a veritable big wall. Image: Matteo Della Bordella

Matteo Della Bordella leaves it open which project the duo wants to tackle in Patagonia. The all-important factor, like everything else, will be the weather. But the Vanhee-Villanueva-Favresse rope team recently proved that great things can be achieved even under difficult conditions.

Important ascents by Matteo Della Bordella

  • 2013: First ascent of the western flank of Torre Egger (2885m, Patagonia)
  • 2017: First ascent of the west face of Cerro Murallon (2780m, Patagonia)
  • 2018: First ascent of the south summit of Riso Patron (2350m, Patagonia)
  • 2019: First ascent of the Bhagirathi IV west face (6192m, Himalayas, India)
  • 2021: Opening of the “Forum” route at Siren Tower (Greenland)
  • 2022: Opening of the alpine-style “Brothers in Arms” route on the east and north faces of Cerro Torre (3128m, Patagonia)

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Credits: Cover picture Matteo Della Bordella

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