Sean Villanueva with the new monster solo traverse “Doble M” in Patagonia

On February 26, 2024, the Belgian Sean Villanueva managed to climb a new, extraordinarily long traverse in Patagonia. He climbed the three towers of Torres del Paine and La Peineta.

The first free ascent of Riders on the storm (1.200m 7c+). Sean Villanueva apparently not enough – or maybe just a good warm-up program. Because almost two weeks after his exploit in the company of Siebe Vanhee, Nico Favresse and Drew Smith Villanueva moved to Campo Britanico in the French Valley single-handedly and with minimal luggage.

As Rolando Garibotti reports on Pataclimb.com, it rained all night, so Sean Villanueva's equipment was soaked. Not the best conditions for a historical traversal. But Villanueva wouldn't be Villanueva if he didn't put doubts aside and set out decisively.

Rectangle_Knatsch in Magic Wood

That was also necessary because after the heavy rainfall there was a short and relatively good weather window. And so, late in the afternoon of February 23rd, Villanueva embarked on the Il Lungo Sogno route (900m 60˚ 5.10 A2) at Torre Sur.

Sean Villanueva brought with him a light tent, food for five days, two gas cartridges, two light ice tools, crampons, a sleeping bag and clothing.

Rolando Garibotti
Sean Villanueva Doble M_Patagonia_Pause_Quelle magdalenamst
Despite the high pace, Sean Villanueva always allows himself a well-deserved break. (Credits: Magdalena Mittersteiner)

On his traversal of Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and Peineta, Villanueva repeatedly encountered delicate conditions, cracks were iced over and there was a lot of snow in certain passages.

When we arrived at the last peak, most of the surrounding peaks were already covered in clouds, which is why Villanueva only allowed herself a short break before arriving at it after several steep abseils. At 16.30:XNUMX p.m. it was done: the first ascent of the “Doble M” traverse.

Rolando Garibotti: http://pataclimb.com/knowledge/mm_en.html

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +
Credits: Pictures Rolando Garibotti | Patagonia Vertical

News

Martin Feistl had a fatal accident

The top German alpinist Martin Feistl had a fatal accident on the south face of the Scharnitzspitze last Saturday.
00:24:44

Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”

Video: Accompany French professional climber Seb Bouin on his way to the fourth ascent of Bibliographie in Ceüse.

Alex Honnold goes free soloing even on wet rock

Alex Honnold is back in Yosemite Valley with two 300-meter free solos, one of them on wet rock.

Edelrid Pinch: New belay device with blocking function and direct belt integration

The Pinch from Edelrid is the first safety device on the market that can be hooked into the central ring of the climbing harness without a carabiner.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Martin Feistl had a fatal accident

The top German alpinist Martin Feistl had a fatal accident on the south face of the Scharnitzspitze last Saturday.
00:24:44

Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”

Video: Accompany French professional climber Seb Bouin on his way to the fourth ascent of Bibliographie in Ceüse.

Alex Honnold goes free soloing even on wet rock

Alex Honnold is back in Yosemite Valley with two 300-meter free solos, one of them on wet rock.
×Display 350x90_Knatsch in Magic Wood