During his most recent stay at Margalef, Alexander Megos scored the route Mejorando Imagen (9a) and rated it 9b.
Most routes and boulders are downgraded, but you rarely hear of upgrades. Not so in the case of Mejorando Imagen. The heavily overhanging Margalef route was from Iker Pou established and implemented in July 2013 Ramón Julián Puigblanque first ascended. Since then, the route in the Racó de la Finestra sector has remained quiet.
Alexander Megos with the first repetition
Almost eight years later, Mejorando Imagen drew the attention of the top German climber Alexander Megos. on yourself. Together with the Scot Will Bosi Alex took a closer look at the route. Alex was able to decipher the individual trains on the first day and climb the route in two sequences on the second day.
On the third day I was able to climb all the difficult passages, but then fell on the last pull of the roof.
Alexander Megos.
It continued promisingly on the third day. Alex completed all key points, but then fell out on the last pull of the roof lip. From then on it went downhill. The next week, Alex didn't make it through the key passage.
I gave up the route. On the last day I gave another try in Mejorando Imagen.
Alex Megos
Alex Megos during the ascent of Perfecto Mundo (9b +)
Last day, best day
Alex actually gave up the route. On the last day of his stay in Margalef, he wanted to know again and drove to Mejorando Imagen. Again he fell three times at the key point to the one-finger hole. He stayed at it, passed the spot on the fourth attempt of the day and was sure to finally reach the diverter. But it turned out differently. Again he fell on the last pull of the roof lip.
I was devastated and frustrated.
Alex Megos
At the end of the day, Alex got on the route to dismantle the quickdraws. Despite the previous events, he was gripped by motivation. He started one last attempt.
I wanted to try again so that I could at least go home with bloody fingertips.
Alex Megos
And so Alex started his sixth attempt - without any expectations. He climbed a long way from ideal, managed the key pull with a bang. But he didn't fall - and climbed the Redpunkt route. True to the motto "Last Day, Best Day".
Upgrade to 9b
The first ascent of the route, Ramón Julián Puigblanque, suggested a level of difficulty for Mejorando Imagen 9a. Alexander Megos, as the second climber of the route, classifies Mejorando Imagen with 9b and thus significantly enhances the line. The main reason for this discrepancy is probably the fact that Ramón Julián Puigblanque is known for rock-hard ratings.
That might interest you
- Pirmin Bertle is disappointed with Adam Ondras devaluation
- Who will climb 9c next? Predictions by Adam Ondra
- Alexander Megos: First ascent of the 9c route Bibliographie in Céüse
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Credits: Cover picture Ken Etzel
