With Bon Voyage in Annot, Adam Ondra briefly repeated one of the most difficult trad routes in the world. But instead of resting on his laurels, he enjoyed his climbing trip to the fullest.
“After my visit to Bon Voyage, I wanted to use the remaining days to discover climbing areas that I had never been to before,” says Adam Ondra. His first stop was in Gréolières, France, where he completed the 8c+ route Steroid Bull climbed in the second go.
Ondra was close to flashing Enzo Oddo's line. After Jules Marchaland showed him the individual moves, he only fell out at the last hard point.
Enzo is known for his harsh reviews, but in this case Jules found a knee-jerk that turns the original 9a into an 8c+.
Adam Ondra
With kneepad and new beta
The following day on the way back to his homeland, Adam Ondra stopped in the Italian climbing region of Albenga. On the menu was the Erboristerria sector, where he onsighted Kalmia-Moci (8b+/c) and Narcissus (9a) climbed in the second go.
Narcissus was set up by Matteo Gambaro in 2020 and rated 9a/9a+. Seb Bouin secured the first replay last December. In contrast to the first climber, Bouin and Ondra climbed with a kneepad.
In addition, we used a different - and in our opinion simpler - beta, which makes the upper part much easier.
Adam Ondra
For these reasons, Adam Ondra “only” claimed a 9a for himself after his quick ascent of the Narcissus route, which was originally rated 9a/a+. Climbed without a kneepad, the Kingline could perhaps even be 9a+, says Ondra.
That might interest you
- Adam Ondra: “Spraywall training brings the best transfer to the rock”
- This is how much grip strength Adam Ondra | has Video
- Adam Ondra on ethical dilemmas in climbing | Video interview
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture @pet.phot