Ondra secures the first repeat of one of the most difficult trad climbing routes in the world: Bon Voyage E12 (9a) near Annot, France.
A little over a week ago, Adam Ondra drove to the Annot climbing area in the south of France. His stated goal was to devote himself to trad climbing. It quickly became clear that he was aiming for it James Pearson First visited route Bon Voyage - much to Pearson's delight:
«Shortly after the ascent of Bon Voyage, I made a list of people who I hoped would try my route. At the top of the list was Adam Ondra.
James Pearson
The Czech fulfilled his wish at the beginning of February. But before serious attempts could begin, Ondra's weather thwarted his plans. Ondra avoided classic sport climbing areas such as Gorges du Loup and Buoux and briefly snapped 8b+ and 8c onsight and 8c+/9a red point. After this short interlude, we went back to the actual project: Bon Voyage.
Adam Ondra invested a total of three days into the route until he was able to climb through - and it wasn't child's play.
«The route challenged me in different ways. Aside from the terrible hook spacing, Bon Voyage features very hard and strange movements and you really have to be a complex athlete."
Adam Ondra
For Ondra it is one of the best routes of his career. And definitely the most difficult trad route of his career. Even if the route were bolted, Ondra would rate the route as a very solid 9a. “Laying mobile security makes it even more physically demanding and gives it the necessary spice,” says the Czech.
With his latest coup, Adam Ondra once again proves how incredibly versatile he is. Apart from bouldering, Ondra holds record titles in all possible disciplines and climbing styles:
- Red point ascent multi-pitch climbing: Dawn Wall (9a)
- Red point ascent for sport climbing: Silence (9c)
- Flash ascent sport climbing: Super Crackinette (9a +)
- Onsight inspection of sport climbing: Water world etc. (9a)
- Flash ascent bouldering: Jade (8B+)
- Red point ascent trad climbing: Bon Voyage E12 (9a)
Should be Boulder Newfoundland be upgraded to 9A, which could happen, he would also be at the absolute top in this discipline.
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Credits: Cover picture Petr Chodura