The competition in Chamonix was characterized by two extremes. Korea's Jain Kim claimed the 30th lead World Cup medal, while Britain's Toby Roberts claimed the first World Cup gold medal of his career. Alexander Megos (GER) and Stefan Schwerz (AUT) took fourth and fifth place.
With Jain Kim, one of the most experienced athletes returns to the international competition stage. In the French Alpine town of Chamonix, the 34-year-old climbed up to 43+ in the final route and thus significantly higher than her opponents Nonoha Kume (JPN) and Helene Janicot (FRA).
"I really didn't expect to win gold because there are so many good young climbers. I'm just happy to be able to stand next to them. I wanted to make my daughter proud and I'm sure she will be. She's probably in bed now, but when I'm back in Korea, I'll give her the medal."
Jain Kim
The Austrian just missed the podium Jessica Pilz with 37+ points, which meant fourth place. Was traded as a big medal contender Seo Chaehyun, also from South Korea. However, she forgot to clip an exe and was consequently stopped by the referees at hold 22.
The lead final in replay
Youngster with a solid performance on the podium
The 18-year-old Brit has already stood once Toby Roberts at the top of the podium. In June he won the Bouldering World Cup in Brixen, Italy. Winning lead gold for a few weeks also surprised Roberts.
"It's just unbelievable, words fail me. Lead climbing has always been something special for me. I like the aspect of fighting and giving everything while the crowd is cheering you on."
Toby Roberts
In second place it was the Frenchman Sam Avezou, who almost climbed to the top, cheered on by the home crowd. He was followed by the Japanese Sorato Anraku with 48 points and the German Alexander Megos. with 46+ points. Despite a convincing performance, the latter only narrowly missed the podium.
The speed final in replay
Results lead
Final table lead climbing women
| Rank | First Name | Last Name | Country | qualification | semi-final | Final |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | YES | KIM | KOR | 8.83 | 39+ | 43+ |
| 2 | NONOHA | KUME | JPN | 4.42 | 43+ | 38+ |
| 3 | HELEN | JANICOT | From | 19.04 | 36 | 38+ |
| 4 | JESSICA | MUSHROOM | TUE | 4.42 | 44+ | 37+ |
| 5 | MIHO | NONAKA | JPN | 7.94 | 36+ | 37+ |
| 6 | MIA | KRAMPL | SLO | 8.83 | 35 | 33 |
| 7 | RESUME | Lukan | SLO | 15.87 | 35 | 29+ |
| 8 | CHAEHYUN | SEO | KOR | 4.42 | 46+ | 22 |
Final table lead climbing men
| Rank | Name | Country | Qualification | Semifinal | Final | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | IT WOULD | ROBERTS | GBR | 6.0 | 50+ | top |
| 2 | SAM | AVEZOU | From | 9.17 | 39+ | 50 |
| 3 | SORATO | ANRAKU | JPN | 6.0 | 50+ | 48 |
| 4 | ALEXANDER | Mego | GER | 11.49 | 40+ | 46+ |
| 5 | STEFAN | HOAX | TUE | 20.78 | 42 | 41 |
| 6 | COLLIN | DUFFY | USA | 13.19 | 46+ | 39+ |
| 7 | LUKA | POTOCAR | SLO | 13.19 | 39+ | 39+ |
| 8 | DOHYUN | LEE | KOR | 11.49 | 40+ | 39 |
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Credits: Cover picture Jan Virt / IFSC