Pete Whittaker's hardest trad first ascent: Crown Royale (9a) | Video

In October, Pete Whittaker climbed one of the most difficult trad routes in the world with Crown Royale (9a) in Jøssingfjord, Norway. The British crack specialist explains in the video how he planned the tough 100-meter crack and why he climbed the last 20 meters of his first ascent free solo.

This October could Pete Whittaker his long-term project Crown Royale climb the Profile Wall in Norway. He invested over 30 sessions in the line over six years. He rated his first ascent 9a, making it one of the most difficult trad lines in the world should the grade manifest itself.

Crown Royale: From review suggestion to consensus

Pete Whittaker is aware that it is very difficult to evaluate tough first ascents. It is always difficult to rate climbs at your own limit, because every increase in perceived difficulty feels like a big step, while in reality you are not making that much progress.

However, I think it's good to propose a degree for a new route as it builds consensus over time.

Pete Whittaker

On the one hand, Whittaker based his assessment on the Darth Vader app, which gave him a 9a soft. On the other hand, he compared Crown Royale with similar routes on the Profile Wall, for example with Recovery Drink (8c +).

Given all the facts, I suggest 9a (very low end) and look forward to seeing what future repeaters think.

Pete Whittaker

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Aaron Wahab

News

3 ultimate technique tips from Will Bosi | Climbing training

In recent years, Will Bosi has catapulted himself from a little-known climber to the climbing elite - in sport climbing and bouldering. In this video, he gives three tips on how to improve your climbing technique.
00:08:39

Seb Bouin: «This roof is massive!» | Narcissus (9a/+)

Sébastien Bouin has released a new video showing his ascent of the route Narcissus (9a/+) in the Albenga climbing area.

Edelrid Product Warning: Cable Comfort Tri

Edelrid calls on owners of the Cable Comfort Tri via ferrata set to stop using the product immediately and return it to Edelrid for inspection.
00:25:36

The ultimate endurance test for the Edelrid Pinch

Since Edelrid launched the Pinch belay device, a debate has flared up about which device is better: Pinch or Grigri. HowNot2 has taken a closer look at the Pinch.

3 ultimate technique tips from Will Bosi | Climbing training

In recent years, Will Bosi has catapulted himself from a little-known climber to the climbing elite - in sport climbing and bouldering. In this video, he gives three tips on how to improve your climbing technique.
00:08:39

Seb Bouin: «This roof is massive!» | Narcissus (9a/+)

Sébastien Bouin has released a new video showing his ascent of the route Narcissus (9a/+) in the Albenga climbing area.

Edelrid Product Warning: Cable Comfort Tri

Edelrid calls on owners of the Cable Comfort Tri via ferrata set to stop using the product immediately and return it to Edelrid for inspection.