Jonas Schild on the gap between sport and trad climbing

During a project that saw him climbing three of the toughest and most breathtaking trad routes in Europe, professional climber and alpinist Jonas Schild reflects on his constant quest to keep the natural routes unspoilt.

As the sport of climbing continues to grow exponentially, views on accessibility, protection and risk management have never been as extreme as they are today. In a community that attracts a large number of people, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a balance between the accessibility of routes and the traditional values ​​of the sport. Nowhere is the gap between sport and trad climbing as big as in Europe.

When you finally reach a point where you (...) keep putting friends next to the bolts, then it becomes a game that doesn't really make sense anymore.

Jonas shield

Video: Jonas Schild climbs the toughest trad routes in Europe

Sense and nonsense of friends and bolts

In his new film takes himself Jonas shield proposes a unique and awe-inspiring trio of routes that hold a special place in the heart of the European trad climbing community and explores his own personal connection to the sport.

Jonas Schild in one of the really big trad lines in France: Le Voyage. Image: Carmen Gasser
Jonas Schild in one of the really big trad lines in France: Le Voyage. Image: Carmen Gasser

It is simply important to maintain and perhaps increase acceptance. Otherwise, at some point, you will no longer be able to climb trad routes.

Jonas shield

The film shows how the Swiss climber Gondo crack (8c/5.14b) in Switzerland, The Journey (7a/5.11d), France's toughest trad route in Annot, and Greenspit (8b+/5.14a) in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, and what is really worth protecting in climbing.

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

Ads Lacrux TV_Doping in Sport Climbing_Rectangle

Don't miss anything - receive our newsletter

* Indicates required
Interests

+ + +

Credits: Cover picture Carmen Gasser

News

Magic Mountain Bouldering Festival

From June 7th to 9th, 2024, the first Magic Mountain Bouldering Festival with contest, workshops, films and party will take place in Magic Wood.
00:24:09

Why repetitive and isolated technique exercises make little sense

Repetitive technique drills are inefficient. Today we'll show you an approach that views movement as self-organized and non-linear.

Ultralight climbing equipment: products, tips and limitations

Highly technical materials and sophisticated production processes allow mountain sports equipment to become increasingly lighter...

Natalia Grossman wins home World Cup and thus bouldering gold number 10

World Cup gold for the tenth: Natalia Grossman wins the home World Cup in Salt Lake City and thus her 10th gold in the bouldering discipline.

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Magic Mountain Bouldering Festival

From June 7th to 9th, 2024, the first Magic Mountain Bouldering Festival with contest, workshops, films and party will take place in Magic Wood.
00:24:09

Why repetitive and isolated technique exercises make little sense

Repetitive technique drills are inefficient. Today we'll show you an approach that views movement as self-organized and non-linear.

Ultralight climbing equipment: products, tips and limitations

Highly technical materials and sophisticated production processes allow mountain sports equipment to become increasingly lighter. Ropes, climbing harnesses and safety devices also shed pounds. What this means for climbing, where...
×Ads Lacrux TV_Doping in Sport Climbing