Jonas Schild on the gap between sport and trad climbing

During a project that saw him climbing three of the toughest and most breathtaking trad routes in Europe, professional climber and alpinist Jonas Schild reflects on his constant quest to keep the natural routes unspoilt.

As the sport of climbing continues to grow exponentially, views on accessibility, protection and risk management have never been as extreme as they are today. In a community that attracts a large number of people, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find a balance between the accessibility of routes and the traditional values ​​of the sport. Nowhere is the gap between sport and trad climbing as big as in Europe.

When you finally reach a point where you (...) keep putting friends next to the bolts, then it becomes a game that doesn't really make sense anymore.

Jonas shield

Video: Jonas Schild climbs the toughest trad routes in Europe

Sense and nonsense of friends and bolts

In his new film takes himself Jonas shield proposes a unique and awe-inspiring trio of routes that hold a special place in the heart of the European trad climbing community and explores his own personal connection to the sport.

Jonas Schild in one of the really big trad lines in France: Le Voyage. Image: Carmen Gasser
Jonas Schild in one of the really big trad lines in France: Le Voyage. Image: Carmen Gasser

It is simply important to maintain and perhaps increase acceptance. Otherwise, at some point, you will no longer be able to climb trad routes.

Jonas shield

The film shows how the Swiss climber Gondo crack (8c/5.14b) in Switzerland, The Journey (7a/5.11d), France's toughest trad route in Annot, and Greenspit (8b+/5.14a) in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, and what is really worth protecting in climbing.

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Credits: Cover picture Carmen Gasser

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