Jernej Kruder manages the red point ascent of the impressive and extremely difficult multi-pitch route Pan Aroma (8b+, 500m) on the western pinnacle.
The roof on the western pinnacle is undoubtedly one of the most impressive in the alpine area. The rock formation hangs out forty meters and was first climbed in 1968 by Gerhard Baur and the brothers Walter and Erich Rudolph. In 2007 it was the German Alexander Huber who opened a free climbing route across this roof.
Pan flavor shares the first five pitches with the Bellavista route, which was also the first to be climbed by Huber, before then running through the central part of the roof and crossing the Baur lead. Since the route was first climbed 16 years ago, the tour has seen few inspections, including the Spaniard Edu Marin and the Poland Łukasz Dudek (Rope solo ascent).
The Slovenian has exactly this test piece in the north face of the western pinnacle Jernej Kruder selected for the hot summer of 2023. Two weeks ago he arrived in the region and asked for rope partners on Instagram.
Jernej Kruder is looking for rope partners for his project
Into the route Pan flavor Jernej Kruder then joined Mirco Dell'Osta, who was already there in 2022, as Kruder the route Nice view could free climb in the same wall.
“Getting from deflector to deflector is not easy. Even though the route is drilled, you have to climb difficult sequences between the bolts - or you'll make long descents."
Jernej Kruder
So the route is not for the faint of heart. It's not without reason that the route doesn't count that many repetitions yet. But Jernej Kruder has proven several times that he has the bite and can keep a cool head.
“I gave it my all and, with cramps in my forearms, reached the deflector of the key pitch. I was totally exhausted - luckily the last pitches to the top of the route were relatively easy.»
Jernej Kruder
The pitches of the Pan Aroma route
7b, 6c, 6a+, 6c+, 7a+, 8b+ (60m, 7 bolts), 8c (20m, 4 bolts), 6c, 6c+, exit via Cassin.
Alexander Huber on the king's line at the western pinnacle
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Credits: Cover picture Mirco Dell'Osta