Kletter ABC: You should know these terms when climbing and bouldering

Whether Dab, Egyptians, Dülfer or Clip Stick. In today's article you will find the most important terms in climbing and bouldering. Of course, the list is not exhaustive. Additions are welcome, you can enter them in the comment field at the end of the article. For an optimal view of the table you have to hold the smartphone across.

A lexicon for climbing and bouldering

ConceptsynonymDescription
slimmedglassySmoother rock surface caused by sweat and mechanical stress, making gripping and kicking more difficult.
drainLower a roped climber to the ground or to a belay.
rappellingAbseiling route with solid fixed points on a higher rock face.
descentsThe terrain under a boulder.
DescentThe distance from the end of a route back to the starting point.
figure eight knotWidely used knot for roping up.
ape indexTerm for a number that is calculated from arm span and body height.
EgyptianDropknee, LolotteTerm for a specific climbing leg position with a knee turned inwards and downwards, which is visually reminiscent of walking Egyptians in historical paintings.
rope upCreation of a non-positive connection between the climber and the rope.
belay loopPart of the harness that connects hip and leg loops. Loop to which a rope, a belay device is attached, or a self-belay sling is attached.
competeThe placing and straining of the foot on a kick.
Apersnow-free (rock and ice walls and glaciers free of snow).
artificielFrench for artificial; Synonymous with technical climbing.
ATCThe brand name of the tubes sold by the manufacturer Black Diamond.
Raised fingersFull CrimpFinger position when holding handles with relatively strongly bent fingers and a closed hand position in which the thumb can support the index finger with pressure. This position makes it easier to hold small bars, but puts a lot of strain on the finger joints.
trailerSloperRound, sloping handle.
Ausboulderncheck-OutFinding out the movement sequences of a climbing route.
compensation anchoringThe connection of two or more fixed points with a sling, on which you then secure yourself and others on the central one.
Ausklettern Easy climbing at the end of climbing training with the aim of positively influencing recovery.
Base ClimbShort sport climbing route at the beginning of a high rock face.
committing styleThe way in which a climbing route is climbed.
BetaAdvance information about a climbing route.
Big WallHigh rock face with many rope lengths, which often takes several days to climb.
BoltboltsEnglish synonym for bolt.
Boulder blockBoulderA few meters high boulder suitable for bouldering.
boulderingClimbing discipline in which a boulder is climbed to jump height without safety devices.
brake handThe belayer's hand that grasps and manipulates the brake rope.
brake cableThe section of rope that runs from the belay device in the direction of the belayer and where the climber's fall is slowed down.
CamalotThe product name of a special two-axis and widely used clamping device from Black Diamond.
ChalkMagnesiumBasic magnesium carbonate in powder form to dry hands from hand sweat before and during climbing.
Chalkbagmagnesium BeutelSmall sealable carry bag filled with magnesia into which a hand can be inserted for drying.
ChipHitting or drilling holds on natural rocks. This is an absolute taboo!
Clip stickCheater stickTelescopic device that is used to hang an Exe with a rope attached to a bolt that is higher up and cannot be reached by hand.
clippingHang the rope in a snap hook.
CrashpadPortable soft landing mat for bouldering.
CruxAlso a key point, the hardest single point on a climbing route.
DabLightly touching the crash pad or other structure during a bouldering move.
Dead PointDynamic gripping at the dead point, in which gravity is not felt for a short moment after a swinging movement.
Deep Water SoloingShort form DWS, PsicoblocFree solo climbing over deep water.
DirettissimaIn as straight line as possible walk on a rock wall.
Double-DynamoDouble DynoSimultaneous, rapid gripping or jumping on a grip with both hands.
DrytoolingClimbing with an ice ax and crampons on rock and artificial walls without ice.
DülfernLaybackingClimbing in stepless passages with side holds (often in the form of a tear edge) using counter-pressure technique.
DynamoDynoClimbing technique in which a hold is achieved by jumping off or by quickly grabbing from an unstable body position.
EntryStart of a climbing route.
first ascentFirst Ascent (FA)First ascent of a route or boulder.
ExeExpressTwo snap carabiners connected to a sling, used to secure climbing routes.
exposedexposedExposure of a route that could result in a large fall height in the event of an unsecured fall.
quickdrawThe sling connecting the two snap carabiners of a quickdraw.
Figure of FourClimbing position in rock climbing in which the climber hangs one leg over one arm to compensate for a missed kick.
fingerboardFingerboard, fingerboardBeam or board made of wood or plastic with different handles for training.
fixed pointReliable attachment point for securing when climbing or mountaineering.
fixed ropeFirmly anchored rope.
FlashInspection of a climbing route that is not yet known to the climber, whereby information about the route is known to him (beta) or is called out to him during the climbing.
Fontainebleauskala Difficulty scale for evaluating bouldering problems, which is abbreviated to Fb for Fontainebleau (example Fb 7b).
Free SoloFree climbing without rope and without any security.
Free climbingClimbing only with the help of natural holds and kicks. The rope and hook are for fall protection only.
FriendDefinite and historically first ever cam (producer: Wild Country); After the introduction of similar products from other manufacturers, it was also used as a generic name for clamping devices with a similar functional principle.
GastonTerm for a side grip that is held with the direction of pull against the body of the climber and from which the body is pushed away from the shoulder upwards or to the side or fixed.
GreenpointGreenpoint climbing is a clean ascent (placing mobile backups in the lead) of a route that can also be secured with Bolts.
grigriSpecial semi-automatic belay device from the Petzl company.
grounderCrash on the ground or on a tape.
Semi-automatic belay devicesemi-automaticGeneric name for a class of belay devices that block the rope in the device when a fall is pulled, with little or no use of the brakes, provided the device functions and is used correctly. For safety reasons, the braking hand principle must always be observed when belaying and lowering these devices.
Munter hitchHMSBackup node.
half ropeRope that may only be used in double strands when leading. It is mostly used for multi-pitch climbing.
shimmyClimbing without feet, only with your hands.
Hanging fingersSpecific grip holding finger position with relatively stretched fingers and an open hand position (cf. also full crimp and crimp).
Haul bagMaterial sack that is dragged from stand to stand when inspecting big walls.
heel hookUsing the heel to pull or push for propulsion or to achieve a stable body position.
HenkelTerm for a large, good grip for all fingers.
HighballHigh boulder problem with possible dangerous falls.
Hook(1) Short for toe and heel hooks. (2) Device that is attached to rock structures in technical climbing and serves as a fixed point.
IFSCInternational Federation of Sport Climbing, international governing body for competitive climbing.
JümarenTechnique of ascent on a fixed rope with the help of two ascenders named after the Jümar ascender.
CarbinecarabinerHook with spring-loaded snap lock.
clamping wedgewedgeWedge-shaped metal block that is clamped as a fixed point in cracks.
knee KlemmerThe clamping of the lower leg between two contact points on the rock by applying pressure between the foot and the knee or thigh.
rosinpofA resin encased in a porous cloth sphere used in sandstone bouldering as a substitute or supplement for magnesia.
crusadeClimbing movement in which the reaching hand crosses the perpendicular line of the holding hand.
stripCrimpOn the one hand, a crimp/bar designates a straight and usually rather small handle shape. On the other hand, crimp is also used to designate the finger position. (semi-raised finger position).
MantleSupport yourself with a handle. Often necessary at the exit of a boulder.
Multi-pitch routeRoute with several pitches.
IceclimbingClimbing routes with ice and rock passages, usually tackled with ice axes and crampons.
Mobile securityDevices that are used to temporarily set up fixed points, such as e.g. B. Nuts and webbing slings.
sewing machineSlang term for severe muscle tremors while climbing.
No-Hand-restResting point where hands are not needed to hold the rock structure.
Open doorThe technical problem of the climber turning sideways out of the wall (like a door opening).
Offwidth crackCrack too wide to jam your fist but narrower than a chimney.
onsight Red point ascent of a climbing route on the first attempt without having received information about movements and holds in the route before or during the ascent.
partner checkFour-eyes principleThe climbing partners mutually check whether all safety measures have been completed correctly.
Pink PointHistorical: red point ascent, in which the intermediate safety devices were installed before the ascent. Is no longer distinguished from red dot.
PlacementSuitable place for placing a mobile belay device.
Plaisir climbingSynonym for enjoyment climbing.
portaledgeLight platform for sleeping on big wall climbs.
ProblemSynonymous with bouldering, a short route that is climbed at jump height without a climbing rope.
PrusikA terminal node that contracts under load.
PumpWith continuous exertion of the fingers, due to acidification with lactate, hard, thickened and less efficient muscles in the forearm (pumped arms)
pointsColloquially for red point climbing.
Red circleFree ascent of a route in the lead without resting at the safety points; several attempts, with the last save point reached remaining attached.
RotpunktInspection of a climbing route in lead climbing without loading the safety chain.
route ReadMentally playing through the movement sequences of a route before the actual attempt.
resting placePlace in a climbing route where the climber can recover without stressing the belay chain.
runoutUnusually large distance between two intermediate fuses.
hourglassHole open on two sides, through which an accessory cord or a sling can be inserted as an intermediate safeguard.
renovateReplacing and supplementing old belay material in climbing routes with new material.
key lengthThe heaviest pitch within a multi-pitch route.
SeilschaftThe climbing partners on a rope.
SeracGlacier break-off zone in steep terrain.
assurance partnerName for the person who secures a climber.
SikaTwo-component stone adhesive used for fixing loose stones and controversially recreating handles or steps.
sinterLonger organ-pillared vertical rock structures.
speed ascentClimbing a climbing route as quickly as possible, usually a multi-pitch route or a big wall.
speed climbingA form of competition in which two climbers compete against each other on two standardized climbing routes on an artificial climbing wall and climb it as quickly as possible.
Sport climbingClimbing with sportive objective.
scoffSafety technique in bouldering. The person standing on the ground ensures a landing on their feet in the event of the climber falling.
fall factorNumber that quantifies the "hardness" of a fall on the rope (height of fall divided by length of rope output = fall factor).
TapeAdhesive tape to support the ligaments or to protect the skin.
Technical climbingForm of climbing in which technical aids such as hooks are used not only for securing but also for locomotion (synonyms: artificial climbing, artif climbing).
ToehookUsing the top of the toe under traction for locomotion or to achieve a stable body position.
TopThe official end of a route, usually reached when the detour is attached.
Top rope or red crossA style of climbing in which the rope runs through the belay, eliminating the need to attach belays while climbing.
TopSketch of a climbing route or a climbing garden.
TradkletternInspection style in which all safety points (mobile safety devices) are attached and removed after the inspection.
TraverseQuergangClimbing route section or boulder that involves horizontal traversal.
diverterA particularly safe fixed point (often two bolts connected with a chain) at the end of a climbing garden route, over which the climber is lowered again.
underclingRoughly horizontal grip that can only be held with pull direction up.
Urban ClimbingCity Bouldering, BuildingClimbing on buildings and other urban structures.
intersectionTwo rock faces, slabs or blocks of rock that – like an open book – meet at an inner edge.
lead climbingA style of ascent that requires the rope to be clipped into the belay points while climbing.
water grooveMostly well gripped vertical erosion phenomenon in limestone.
boardingThe distance from the starting point to the route.

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Credits: Cover picture, terms Wikipedia

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1 comment

  1. - Pliers or pliers handle
    - oldschool or newschool (-climbing)
    - adhesive hook
    - Overhang, plate, roof
    - Volume
    - Hole

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