Simon Lorenzi climbs Foundation's Edge (8C) at breakneck speed and targets Alphane (9A).

In 2013, bouldering legend Dave Graham opened Foundation's Edge (8C). Since then, the groin-heavy boulder has been considered a valid test piece in Fionnay. The strong Belgian Simon Lorenzi recently secured an incredibly fast repetition: in just one and a half hours he climbed the line on the third attempt.

Simon Lorenzi succeeds in Fionnay in Valais the inspection of the Dave Graham-Line Foundation's Edge (8C). While the groin boulder demanded several sessions from many a strong climber, the 25-year-old managed the line almost in transit.

«On my way to Magic Wood, the idea of ​​climbing Foundation's Edge (8C) in one day came up. And it turned out better than I expected."

Simon Lorenzi

Record-breaking: Simon Lorenzi climbs Foundation's Edge in three and a half hours

Foundation's Edge (8C) in the third go

"It took me about an hour and a half to warm up, check out the trains and climb the boulder on the third attempt," says Simon Lorenzi. That was the fastest process he had ever had at this level.

Whether this is due to the fact that Foundation's Edge is rated rather softly or that the line suits him very well in terms of style, the strong Belgian cannot and does not want to judge conclusively. Levels of difficulty are always very subjective.

"Difficulty levels are always very subjective anyway."

Simon Lorenzi

Promising attempts at Alphane (9A)

However, what is pretty clear is Simon Lorenzi's current physique. Even if he wasn't quite convincing at the European Championships in Munich with 22nd place in lead and 23rd place in bouldering, he's really strong on real rock.

In addition to Fionnay, Simon Lorenzi also put in Chironico a stop to see the youngest 9A boulder, alphanes, to pay a visit.

«Alphane's line and movements are fantastic. It's an incredible mix of power, excitement and technique."

Simon Lorenzi
Despite the unfavorable conditions in Ticino, Simon Lorenzi manages to climb Alphane in two parts. Image: Oriane Tollebeek
Despite the unfavorable conditions in Ticino, Simon Lorenzi manages to climb Alphane in two parts. Picture: Oriane Tollebeek

According to Simon Lorenzi, he found Alphane's style to be quite unique and complex. "The most difficult thing is to keep your feet on the wall and at the same time pull enough to optimize your hand grip."

Despite the warm conditions in Ticino, the young Belgian managed to make some promising attempts and climb Alphane in two parts. We're excited to see how Simon Lorenzi will cope with the complex boulder when he returns to Chironico in cooler temperatures and correspondingly more ideal conditions.

You have perfect friction with magnesium from FrictionLabs

If the conditions in your project are rather suboptimal, as with Simon Lorenzi in Alphane, then the Chalk from Frictionlabs will help you further.

FrictionLab is a magnesium manufacturer trusted by many climbing pros because their near-pure magnesium is more moisture-wicking and less smearing than alternative products.

FrictionLabs Magnesium: Unicorn Dust - Gorilla Grip - Bam Bam
The three types of FrictionLabs Magnesium: Unicorn Dust - Gorilla Grip - Bam Bam (picture FrictionLabs)

FrictionLabs has magnesium in different degrees of fineness in the assortment. The white powder is available in the three variants Unicorn Dust (Ultra fine) Gorilla grip (fine) and Bam Bam  (small pieces of magnesium). For lovers of liquid chalk there is the so-called Secret stuff.

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Credits: Cover picture Oriane Tollebeek

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