Martin Feistl: “The most difficult thing was attaching the fuses or accepting that there are none.”

Simon Gietl and Martin Feistl climbed a bold line on the north face of Sassolungo in Val Gardena from February 2nd to 3rd: Aura (1200m, M6, AI5).

The ice cream and mixed duo Gietl/Feistl has struck again. In the mighty North Face of Langkofel, which towers regally over the Val Gardena, the two alpinists completed an impressive line: Aura (1200m, M6, AI5).

“The heart of the line is the 350 meter long Legrima icefall,” enthuses Martin Feistl. The two mountain guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder first climbed this in 2013. To get to the ice line, Simon Gietl and Martin Feistl climbed two pitches of the Princess in the Heart summer route.

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We've been watching this perfect strip on the webcam all winter and wondering what the consistency would be? Ice or powder snow?

Martin Feistl

According to Feistl, the main difficulties of their line were “in installing safeguards or accepting that there are none.” Continuing the line via Legrima is certainly a goal for the future. “Due to the very dry conditions, it would have been very difficult for us without climbing shoes,” said the aspiring mountain guide.

  • At the heart of the tour, the impressive icefall.
  • Looking Up.
  • Martin Feistl enjoys the ice conditions on the Sassolungo north face.
  • The security: often difficult or even non-existent.
  • A well-rehearsed duo: Simon Gietl and Martin Feistl.
  • In the upper pitches of the second day.

That's why after the icefall the two climbed four pitches on the north edge (E. Pichl, W. Waizer, August 1918) to an inconspicuous bivouac cave. The next day, another 15 pitches followed in partly stormy winds over the 'north edge' to the summit of the Sassolungo. From there they descended to St. Christina and hitchhiked back to the car at Sella Pass.

It was a great adventure that I am very grateful for.

Martin Feistl

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Credits: Cover photo and article images Simon Gietl and Martin Feistl

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