Alex Txikon and Nepali team climb Manaslu in winter

The Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon succeeds together with the six Nepalese mountaineers Tenjen Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tasi Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa on a historic winter ascent of the 8163 meter high Manaslu. Almost 40 years have passed since the first summit success in winter. To date, only 22 mountaineers have achieved this enormous feat.

It is the morning of January 6, 2023 when the radio message arrives at base camp: Summit! The Basque Alex Txikon and the Nepali Tenjen Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tasi Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa stand on the summit of the 8163 meter high Manaslu. For Alex Txikon it is the second successful winter ascent of an eight-thousander after Nanga Parbat in February 2016.

Simone Moro not on the summit

Member of the international expedition at Manaslu was also Simone Moro. The Italian is a proven specialist when it comes to winter mountaineering. Together with Alex Txikon he had already tried to climb the eighth highest mountain in the world for the past two winters. However, large amounts of snow thwarted their plans on both occasions.

Not this year. In the New Year's week, a window of fine weather with low wind speeds opened up, which the mountaineers used to make rapid progress on the mountain. However, the Italian 8000 veteran turned back en route to Camp 2 due to digestive problems.

A major setback for the 55-year-old Italian, one would think. "Manaslu is also this," says Simone Moro, showing his true greatness. He is not used to being sad or regretting a part of his life that took a different turn. "I'm glad I was able to share so many winters with Alex and that he got to the top on the perfect day we've been waiting for."

"Fate didn't want me to be there, it wanted the whole team to finish the project. Fate also did not decide that I would lose motivation. Another constructive farewell to the Nepalese mountains."

Simone Moro

Chronicle of the winter ascents of Manaslu

Yearclimbers
12 January 1983Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski, Poland
14 December 1985Yasuhira Saito and Noboru Yamada, Japan
8 December 1995Alexander Baimakhanov, Anatoly Boukreev, Shafkhat Gataoulin, Oleg Malikov, Dmitri Sobolev, Vladimir Souviga, Yuri Moiseev and Dmitri Mouravev, Kazakhstan
6 December 1998Young Seok Park, South Korea
6 December 1998Kami Dorchi (Kami Dorje) Sherpa (Kerung, Solukhumbu) and Ang Dawa (Dawa) Tamang (Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu), Nepal
6 January 2023Alex Txikon, Spain, Tenjen Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tasi Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa, Nepal
Source: Himalayan Database

    That might interest you

    Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

    In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

    Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

    + + +

    Credits: Cover picture Alex Txikon

    News

    IFSC Lead and Speed ​​World Cup Briançon | Info & Livestream

    The last World Cup before the Olympics will take place in Briançon from July 17 to 19, 2024. Here you can find all the important information and live streams.

    5 reasons to make a pilgrimage to the Alpine Mecca of Chamonix next year

    Find out all about the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix: a superlative event for alpine enthusiasts from over 30 countries.

    Ai Mori and Colin Duffy win Lead World Cup in Chamonix

    The Lead World Cup in Chamonix 2024 is history: Japanese Ai Mori and American Colin Duffy win the gold medal.

    These 68 climbers are qualified | Olympic Games Paris

    Which climbers are qualified for the Olympic Games? We'll tell you in this article.

    Newsletter

    Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

    IFSC Lead and Speed ​​World Cup Briançon | Info & Livestream

    The last World Cup before the Olympics will take place in Briançon from July 17 to 19, 2024. Here you can find all the important information and live streams.

    5 reasons to make a pilgrimage to the Alpine Mecca of Chamonix next year

    Find out all about the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix: a superlative event for alpine enthusiasts from over 30 countries.

    Ai Mori and Colin Duffy win Lead World Cup in Chamonix

    The Lead World Cup in Chamonix 2024 is history: Japanese Ai Mori and American Colin Duffy win the gold medal.