mountaineering
Spanish ultra-runner, ski mountaineer and alpinist Kilian Jornet completes his attempt to climb Everest single-handedly and without supplemental oxygen via the challenging Hornbein Couloir. This after an avalanche had swept him 50 meters away and he had already found extremely difficult conditions on the west shoulder.
mountaineering
With the establishment of mountain tourism on most of the eight-thousanders and all of the Seven Summits plus a few other mountains, the required alpinistic skills have been reduced to almost zero. By alpine skills I mean independent climbing, acting and making decisions on the mountain. Everything that used to be required on these mountains has now largely become superfluous thanks to the technical infrastructure on the mountain. It is enough if you learn to walk with crampons in the base camp and to attach yourself correctly to the fixed rope.
mountaineering
The three alpinists Roger Schäli, Simon Gietl and Mathieu Maynadier have opened a new, challenging route on the 6600 meter high Meru Peak in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas: Goldfish (800m, M6+, A1). Schäli and Maynadier had already tried the route together with Sean Villanueva in 2019, but had to turn around in the upper third of the wall.
mountaineering
In the summer of last year, the renowned alpinist and mountain guide Christophe Profit removed metal posts that were used to secure the heavily frequented Goûter route on Mont Blanc. Now he has been charged with theft. He faces a fine of 4000 euros.
mountaineering
Last winter in Patagonia, a strong rope team attracted attention: crack specialist Pete Whittaker and Patagonia veteran Sean Villanueva. During their time together, the duo managed, among other things, to wring a first free ascent from two hard crack lines.
mountaineering
The two alpinists and mountain guides Michi Wohlleben and Lukas Hinterberger succeed in their project Salbitschijen winter trilogy in the Uri Alps. Within 45 hours on February 15th and 16th, the two climbed the south, west and east ridges to the 2985 meter high Salbitschijen with its famous summit needle.
mountaineering
On July 12, 2022, the two Swiss alpinists Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrügg climbed the Swiss Skyline Route from the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland in a new best time of 13 hours and 8 minutes. In the video for their record ascent, the two comment on the fine line between speed and risk.
mountaineering
On July 3, 1953, the Austrian alpinist Hermann Buhl was the first person to stand on the summit of Nanga Parbat - the 8.125 meter high "mountain of destiny" in the western Himalayas, the climb of which claimed more lives than almost any other. And yet the mountain still attracts alpinists to this day - even in winter. In the Bergwelten documentation, Reinhold Messner presents the eight-thousander from his perspective and shows its uniqueness in the western Himalayas in Pakistan.
mountaineering
With the G-Tech, La Sportiva has developed an extremely light mountaineering boot that covers the entire range of technical mountaineering - from ice and mixed climbing to mountaineering in demanding mixed terrain. We took a closer look at the alpine miracle weapon from the Italian shoe specialist.
mountaineering
Dry tooling is a highly effective strength and technique training for difficult ice and mixed climbing. Alpinists who want to be better and safer in mixed, alpine terrain also benefit enormously. More and more people practice dry tooling as an independent sport. This article provides a compact insight into the basics of this fascinating discipline.
mountaineering
The South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl manages the first winter traverse of the Geislerspitzen single-handedly. All in all, the professional alpinist was on the road for three days and climbed twelve independent peaks of the Geisler group.
mountaineering
Jost Kobusch reached the highest peak in North America on Sunday. The German alpinist is the first non-American to solo climb Denali in winter and the first person to do so via the Messner Couloir.
mountaineering
From February 12th to 13th, the Italian alpinists Francois Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli opened a new route on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3.773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif: Couloir Isaïe (600m, M8, 7a/ 7a+, AI5).
mountaineering
Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer and Clovis Pauline manage the first free ascent of the Directissime de la Pointe Walker (ED++, 7a, A2) in the notorious north face of the Grandes Jorasses. At the same time, it is the first winter ascent and the first repetition of the route from 1986.
mountaineering
The French mountain guides Benjamin Védrines, Nicolas Jean and Julien Cruvellier de Luze are opening a new route through the previously untouched "La Gorge" on the south face of the Barre des Écrins, the southernmost 4000m peak in the Alps: De l'Or en Barre (1000m, M7 , A1, 5+, ED+).