New route opened on the wild Matterhorn south face

On February 6th, the four Italian alpinists Francois Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli opened a new route on the exposed and rarely used south face of the Matterhorn: Una Follia per Adriana - The Great Dihedral of The South Face (800m, M7 , 6b, R4).

The Italian team had already attempted to climb the line at the end of January, but had to abandon the attempt due to unforeseen difficulties. Returned a week later François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli with new vigor and a new strategy Matterhorn south face back. With success: 12 hours after starting in Seggiovia Pancheron they were at the summit.

Your new route Una Follia per Adriana – The Great Dihedral of The South Face (800m, M7, 6b, R4) runs between the Picco Muzio (4187m) and the Pilastro dei Fiori (4000m). It includes 300 meters of climbing in the steep snow couloir and 500 meters of challenging and exposed mixed terrain.

Rectangle_Knatsch in Magic Wood

Field report by Francois Cazzanelli

Surprised by difficulties

I saw this route while skiing with my cousin Teto. I immediately spoke to Marco about it and he had also noticed it a few years ago. We called Jerome and Stefano and the team was ready.

On the first attempt we had no clear strategy or idea of ​​what the route would be. We didn't expect such a steep and vertical wall that sometimes overhangs.

François Cazzanelli

The problem was that we didn't have a clear plan. We also realized pretty quickly that climbing this route requires special conditions. Still, we managed to climb six pitches of the route that day, with Jerome leading four and Marco and I leading the other two.

In the wild, exposed and rarely visited south face of the Matterhorn. Images: Damiano Levati | Storyteller Labs

Success on the second attempt

Everything just came together on Tuesday. The atmosphere in the team was great and the conditions were perfect! After a few days that were too hot, the temperatures had dropped and the sky was cloudy - perfect for us! The route conditions were a bit dry but still good.

Again it was Jerome who climbed the first four pitches, I climbed the next two, and by 11am we were already at our highest point of our first attempt. Back then we only got there at 16 p.m. At this point I put on my climbing shoes and opened the next two pitches.

The first was very impressive, a gigantic offwidth with lots of air under my butt! The second one was easier, but the flat entry really challenged me.

François Cazzanelli
Francois Cazzanelli in the huge intersection of the seventh pitch. Image: Damiano Levati | Storyteller Labs
Francois Cazzanelli in the huge intersection of the seventh pitch. Image: Damiano Levati | Storyteller Labs

In memory of Adriana Pession

Then it was Marco's turn, who opened a pitch with very bad rock. The last section was easier and eventually we came out into the sun under the huge block that overhangs the pillar. We would like to dedicate this new route and its name to the late Adriana Pession.

Adriana worked her whole life as secretary of the Society of Mountain Guides of the Matterhorn and was like a second mother to us and all the mountain guides here.

François Cazzanelli

That might interest you

Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +

Credits: Cover Image: Damiano Levati | Storyteller Labs

News

Black Diamond recalls Neve Strap crampons

Black Diamond Equipment is recalling the Neve Strap crampons (green version 2024) and the corresponding accessories/spare parts. 

Melissa Le Nevé is the first woman to climb The Dagger (8B+)

One and a half years after the ascent, Melissa Le Nevé announced the first women's ascent of the 8B+ boulder The Dagger.

Crème de la crème is fighting for the Swiss championship title in bouldering

This Saturday the best climbers in Switzerland will fight for the bouldering championship title in the Quadrel Boulder.

Female power in Annot: Soline Kentzel climbs trad test piece Le Voyage (E10, 7a)

The young Frenchwoman Soline Kentzel secured the fourth women's ascent of the tough trad route Le Voyage (E10, 7a).

Newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

Black Diamond recalls Neve Strap crampons

Black Diamond Equipment is recalling the Neve Strap crampons (green version 2024) and the corresponding accessories/spare parts. 

Melissa Le Nevé is the first woman to climb The Dagger (8B+)

One and a half years after the ascent, Melissa Le Nevé announced the first women's ascent of the 8B+ boulder The Dagger.

Crème de la crème is fighting for the Swiss championship title in bouldering

This Saturday the best climbers in Switzerland will fight for the bouldering championship title in the Quadrel Boulder.
×Display 350x90_Knatsch in Magic Wood