The two Swiss alpinists and mountain guides Simon Wahli and Yannick Glatthard set a new record on the Uri Salbitschijen. You climb the west, south and east degrees in 5 hours and 53 minutes.
An experience report from Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
The Salbitschiyen With its three ridges, climbers fascinate far beyond the Swiss borders. For most people, just completing one of the three ridges in one day, especially the longest and most challenging, the West Ridge, is a sense of achievement.
Together they count around 70 rope lengths and over 1500 meters of climbing, which stretch over towers and gaps in different directions. It is not surprising that the best climbers compete on these tours with speed climbs.
Salbit Trilogy: From idea to action
It wasn't until June 2023 recent record of 9 hours and 36 minutes set up by Dani Arnold, who mastered the three ridges single-handedly. The performance of the Uri mountain guide and professional climber also has Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli inspired to test their skills in this terrain. But they wanted to try it as a team.
We knew from tours together that we climbed quickly and efficiently as a team. With the Salbit Trilogy we were able to put this ability into action.
Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Simon was familiar with the area as a climber and mountain guide. He had already climbed the ridge tours or led guests over the towers several times. The ridge tours were particularly new for Yannick and so they decided to recap the three tours on October 2nd and 3rd. They wanted to validate whether they had a chance of setting a new record as a team.
For nighttime adventures: Black Diamond Remote 1500 Headlamp
Developed for fast long-distance running and technically demanding terrain, the Distance 1500 represents the pinnacle of headlamp technology.
The integrated PowerTap™ technology increases the light output at maximum setting to 1500 lumens, ensuring comprehensive path illumination and timely recognition of path markings.
On Monday, October 2nd, Simon and Yannick climbed the entire east ridge, rappelled down the south face, traversed to the Zahnscharte and climbed the upper part of the south ridge. Tuesday, October 3rd, was dedicated to the Salbit West Ridge. This is the most demanding in terms of difficulty, length and technical requirements.
Immediately afterwards, they climbed the lower part of the south ridge. For the tricky climbing passages, technique and strategy were discussed and decided in advance in order to ensure maximum safety with minimal loss of time.
After this test run, we both felt optimistic.
Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
The timing was right because fewer rope teams dare to go on these long tours in October. The weather forecast was stable and both felt fit and experienced after the many days of climbing in summer and autumn.
Teamwork and tactics – the recipe for success
On Thursday, October 5th, Simon and Yannick climbed to the Salbithütte with the intention of climbing all three ridges as quickly as possible the next day.
Everyone in the hut knew we wanted to try it, but no one said it. We still received so much support and positive energy that we were able to start our project in the best conditions.
Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
At 7.55:40 a.m. the rope team left the hut to tackle the west ridge first after a XNUMX-minute climb. The two climbed over this ridge with its six towers at the same time, changing leadership at each gap. Anyone who has ever been on a ridge knows how much time you can save or lose by handling the rope.
New record on the west ridge
The tactic of simultaneous climbing with regular changes in the lead allowed them to move forward quickly and efficiently. If one was in the lead and had to make decisions, the other could mentally recover and just follow the climbing line.
After 1 hour and 52 minutes we were already on the summit needle and were the first rope team to climb the ridge in under two hours.
Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
They quickly rappelled down the south face to get to the tooth gap on the south ridge. From there there were two more abseiling points and a short walk to the start of the second ridge. They also climbed this simultaneously, with Simon leading the way up to the Zahnscharte and Yannick leading the rest of the way up to the summit needle.
They left a rope in the rappel from the summit needle to save time later and because they would be climbing the east ridge rope-free, except for the key passage. In order to climb the same route as the record holder, they chose the original entrance to the east ridge, which is slightly higher than the direct entry.
Towards the end of the east ridge, Yannick noticed the exhaustion, while Simon knew he would have to give his best again on the descent. The duo also exploited the individual strengths of the two climbers - Simon runs faster on the ascent and Yannick on the descent - in the final sprint.
When one of us felt exhausted, the other's energy could lift him up. One of us was always fit and could carry the other along.
Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
At 13.48:5 p.m. Simon and Yannick were back in the hut after an emotionally charged race over the scree slopes. They happily took a selfie to record their time. It took them 53 hours and XNUMX minutes, setting a new record, to climb over the three ridges with the Salbit Hut as the start and finish line.
Editor's note: With their speed ascent, the two hold the rope team record on the three Salbit ridges. However, a direct comparison cannot be made with Dani Arnold's solo record.
A long-standing friendship as the basis for a top performance
Simon and Yannick emphasize that they would not have tackled this project alone. They discussed and planned everything together, from the idea to its implementation. For them it was a team project from the start.
The two have a long-standing friendship and have gone on numerous tours together. They have known each other for 15 years and were on the same climbing team as teenagers. They later climbed their first tours together in the Wenden, such as Elephant Ear and Jednicka, and quickly realized that they complemented each other and could support each other morally in these psychologically demanding climbs.
So they tackled further major tours in the Dolomites, such as the one-day onsight ascent Way through the fish on the Marmolada in winter or the Crossing from east to west of the Three Peaks, also in winter.
That might interest you
- Glatthard, Wahli and Schild release the uncompromising crack test piece GWS-Direct (5 SL, 8a+)
- Yannick Glatthard climbs 5 Grimsel classic rope solo
- Extremely difficult mixed route first climbed: Yannick Glatthard climbs Hall of Fame (400m, M13, WI6+)
Do you like our climbing magazine? When launching the climbing magazine Lacrux, we decided not to introduce a paywall because we want to provide as many like-minded people as possible with news from the climbing scene.
In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.
Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.
+ + +
Credits: Cover picture Diego Schlappi