Laura Rogora and Sean Bailey win Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2021

The third Lead World Cup of the 2021 season ended yesterday evening in Chamonix, France, where the Italian Laura Rogora and the American Sean Bailey took first place in the women's and men's finals.

Sean Bailey claimed a second consecutive lead World Cup gold medal after topping the podium in Villars, Switzerland earlier in the month. Overall, it's his third gold medal of the season, as he won gold in the bouldering discipline in Salt Lake City.

After Bailey - who achieved a rating of 34+ - the Italian Stefano Ghisolfi followed in second place, who won his second silver medal of the season with 32 points. Ghisolfi also came second at the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck.

The Czech Martin Stranik achieved the same rating as Ghisolfi in the men's final, but ended up in 3rd place due to the result of the preliminary round. The Swiss Sascha Lehmann, who convinced with a strong performance in Chamonix, just missed the podium.

Yannick Flohé: Controversial decision

The German athlete Yannick Flohé had to swallow a bitter pill. With a rating of 41+, the joy of making it into the final round was great. But the joy did not last long. The rating was contested and approved by the responsible referee. Yannick's move to the next grip was not recognized, with the result that he was deprived of the plus rating and slipped back to 11th place.

An incompetent IFSC referee put me in 11th place. The decisions about the positive scores have been somewhat random in the recent past.

Yannick Flohe

Italian Laura Rogora wins second World Cup gold medal

In the women's final, with the only top of the evening, Italian Laura Rogora added a second World Cup gold medal to her collection after winning the only World Cup of the season in Briançon, France last year. Laura Rogora, who is currently one of the strongest female athletes, won silver in Villar.

Second place went to the high-flyer Natalia Grossman from the USA, who won her sixth medal of the 41 season with a rating of 2021+. She won a medal at every World Cup this season!

Bulgarian Aleksandra Totkova was behind Grossman with 38+ points. After reaching the semi-finals on her debut in the Senior World Cup in Innsbruck, Totkova reached the final in Villars and took her first podium tonight in Chamonix. The 16-year-old is certainly one of the athletes we will hear more from.

The full results of the Lead World Cup in Chamonix 2021

Top 10 for men

RankNameFirst NameCountryqualificationsemi-finalFinal
1SEANBALEYUSA8.314334+
2STEFANOGHISOLFIITA11.624632
3MARTINSTRANIKCZE14.94332
4SASHALEHMANNSUI647+29
5VICTOREDGE OF BUILDINGCAN5.6141+28+
6MARCELLOBOMBARDIITA10.3941+26+
7LUKAPOTOCARSLO15.914525+
8PAULJENFTFrom11.6245+25
9MASAHIROHIGUCHIJPN13.1341+
10HANNESPumanSWE26.9441+

Top 10 for women

RankNameFirst NameCountryqualificationsemi-finalFinal
1LAURAROGORAITA9.81toptop
2NATALIAGROSSMANUSA3.24top41+
3ALEXANDRATOTKOVABUL4.58top38+
4RESUMELukanSLO8.49top38+
5NATSUKITANIIJPN14.83top32+
6JULIACHANOURDIEFrom5.77top29+
7ASHIMAShiraishiUSA15.87top29+
8DINARAFACHRITDINOVRUS5.77top28+
9NOLIFARCFrom20.65top
10ELISKAADAMOVSKACZE16.1654

The final of the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in the repeat

Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

+ + +
Credits: Text IFSC, picture Daniel Gajda / IFSC

News

Autumn holidays in Margalef: Leo Cea (12) climbs “Víctimas Pérez” (9a)

From school to the crag: Twelve-year-old Leo Cea used his autumn break to check out some challenging routes in Margalef. With "Víctimas Pérez," the exceptional young climber has now completed his fifth 9a there.

Filip Schenk scores in «Omen Nomen» 9a in Arco

With «Omen Nomen», Filip Schenk has completed a long-standing project in Padaro near Arco. It's a line that has been on his to-do list ever since he started climbing difficult routes.

"Arrival of the Birds" (9A) gets its first repeat | Sean Bailey in Chironico

Controlled movements, tiny edges, stable positions - American sport climber Sean Bailey quietly repeated Aidan Roberts' test piece "Arrival of the Birds" in Chironico, Switzerland.

Flash train for Adam Ondra | Second flash of Foundation's Edge (8C)

One flash after another! The rock climbing season has only just begun, and we're already typing away about Adam Ondra. The Czech climber has become only the second person in the world to flash Foundation's Edge (8C) in Fionnay. 

Autumn holidays in Margalef: Leo Cea (12) climbs “Víctimas Pérez” (9a)

From school to the crag: Twelve-year-old Leo Cea used his autumn break to check out some challenging routes in Margalef. With "Víctimas Pérez," the exceptional young climber has now completed his fifth 9a there.

Filip Schenk scores in «Omen Nomen» 9a in Arco

With «Omen Nomen», Filip Schenk has completed a long-standing project in Padaro near Arco. It's a line that has been on his to-do list ever since he started climbing difficult routes.

"Arrival of the Birds" (9A) gets its first repeat | Sean Bailey in Chironico

Controlled movements, tiny edges, stable positions - American sport climber Sean Bailey quietly repeated Aidan Roberts' test piece "Arrival of the Birds" in Chironico, Switzerland.