Schubert grabs second World Cup gold and Olympic ticket | Result final combined format Bouldering & Lead men

Jakob Schubert dominates the combined final at the Sport Climbing World Championships in Bern. The Austrian wins his second gold medal and the coveted Olympic ticket within a week. Colin Duffy and Tomoa Narasaki also qualified for Paris with their silver and bronze medals respectively.

The news about the 2023 World Cup will be presented by Unparallel, Petzl and Bächli Bergsport

He saw came and conquered. This is how the finale of the combined bouldering and lead format can be summarized in a nutshell. Jakob Schubert started extremely strong in the bouldering competition. The Austrian topped all four boulders and thus created a promising starting position for the upcoming lead competition. There he reached the highest point - that was enough for the second gold medal and the ticket for Paris 2024.

Rectangle_Knatsch in Magic Wood
Jakob Schubert wins the combined Bouldering & Lead format as well as a coveted ticket for the 2024 Olympics in Paris
Jakob Schubert wins the combined Bouldering & Lead format as well as a coveted ticket for the 2024 Olympics in Paris

I still can't believe that I can now cross my goal of qualifying for the Olympics off my list. To be able to do that on the first try is insane.

Jakob Schubert

After bouldering a lot is still open

But Schubert was far from the only one who bouldered heavily. Also the Japanese veteran Tomoa Narasaki seemed to be in full flow and took four tops. In addition to the two youngsters Sorato Anraku and Colin Duffy also succeeded the darling of the public from the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra, a tailor-made start: Three tops and two zones – the lead could be built on that.

Ondra got a long way up the 15 meter high wall, but not far enough. Disappointment was written all over his face as soon as he let it go. And when he, who tackled the lead route in third place, was slowly pushed back and pushed off the podium, his hopes of an early Olympic qualification were finally dashed.

Adam Ondra had hoped for more from his participation in the final of the combined Bouldering & Lead format. Image: Jan Virt.
Adam Ondra had hoped for more from his participation in the final of the combined Bouldering & Lead format. Image: Jan Virt.

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Duffy and Narasaki: Thanks to consistency on the podium

One who climbed very strongly and consistently throughout the evening was 19-year-old American Colin Duffy. He, who was already climbing at the Olympic Games in Tokyo when he was young but had a rather mixed season at the moment, was all the happier about the silver medal and the Olympic ticket.

27-year-old Japanese Tomoa Narasaki had finished top of the bouldering competition and completed his performance in the combined final with 57 points in the lead. With more than half of the finalists falling just below or above the 60 mark, that result was enough for the bronze medal and qualification for Paris 2024.

Returns to Japan with a World Championship bronze medal and an Olympic ticket: Tomoa Narasaki. Image: Lena Drapella
Returns to Japan with a World Championship bronze medal and an Olympic ticket: Tomoa Narasaki. Image: Lena Drapella

Roberts and Anraku not at their best

Toby Roberts, who already fell short of his expectations in the lead final, wasn't able to trump as desired in his parade discipline in the combined final either. Although he achieved the third-best result with 64.1, this was not enough for a place on the podium in the environment of the strong finalists.

The Japanese youngster Sorato Anraku shouldn't be completely satisfied with his performance either. He finished bouldering third best, but fell too early in the lead for his standards. So he ended up in the thankless fourth place. At least he can console himself with the fact that he already has a silver medal at the World Championships and, at the young age of 16, has the best chance of shaking up the world's climbing elite in the coming years.

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Ranking Final combined format Bouldering & Lead

1Jacob SCHUBERT183.6
2Colin DUFFY160.7
3Tomoa NARASAKI156.7
4Sorato ANRAKU149.1
5Toby ROBERTS143.4
6Adam ONDRA141.2
7Dohyun LEE127.1
8Paul Jenft102.8

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Credits: Cover photo Lena Drapella

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