Old master Dai Koyamada releases the hardest project of his life: Yugen (8C/8C+)

A year ago, the Japanese Dai Koyamada managed the first ascent of Mugen (8C) in Hinohara. Now, at the age of 47, the climbing legend was able to go one step further and clear an even harder boulder on the same block: Yugen (8C/8C+).

The Japanese climbing pioneer Dai Koyamada has struck again. In Hinohara, the 47-year-old was able to solve what was probably the hardest bouldering problem of his long career: Yugen (8C/8C+). The line is on the same block where he got it almost exactly a year ago First ascent of Mugen (8C) was successful.

It's finally done. It was a huge challenge for me.

Dai Koyamada

Yugen (8C/8C+): Project with an uncertain outcome

When Dai Koyamada began projecting Yugen, he wasn't sure if he would ever be able to decipher the problem. "When I first attempted the line three months ago, it didn't feel like I had a chance of ever climbing it."

The long project planning definitely left its mark. Dai Koyamada says he was worried about his physical condition. And yet on the day of the climb he felt better than ever before. “At this age I feel like my body is regressing compared to before, but I was very happy that I was in better shape than I was three months ago.”

It's a miracle that I was able to discover and try this line while I still had the strength.

Dai Koyamada

Hardest project of his life

While the project was being planned, the Japanese man spoke of what was probably the hardest project of his life. Dai Koyamada also underlines this perception with his suggested rating of 8C/8C+. Yugen is definitely harder than Mugen (8C), the line to the left of it. «But much more important than that is the undeniable fact that I have mastered this challenge. It was a wonderful problem."

I had a great time and am very satisfied.

Dai Koyamada

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Credits: Cover picture Dai Koyamada

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