In mid-January, Facundo Saubidet, Jeremías Castaña and Santiago Scavolini opened a new route on the west face of Guillaumet: Anda pa'alla. At the beginning of the week, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva managed to complete the 500-meter line with difficulties up to 8a and to climb completely free for the first time.
Reached for the second time within a short time, closely followed by a short window of fine weather in Patagonia a success message from Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva our editorial office. On February 7th, they were the first rope team to free Yacaré (550m, 7a+) on the Aguja Rafael Juarez. A few days ago they doubled with the first free ascent of Anda pa'alla (500m, 8a) at the Aguja Guillaumet in the menu.
Completed and free climbed
Facundo Saubidet's, Jeremías Castaña and Santiago Scavolini's first line climbs the west face of Aguja Guillaumet in nine pitches before merging with a variant of Route Padrijo just before the summit.
Sean Villanueva and Pete Whittaker managed to continue the route to the summit, free climbing all pitches for the first time. Riss specialist Pete Whittaker was able to redpoint the 8a key pitch on the second attempt, while Sean Villanueva narrowly missed.
Key point: A thin, icy crack
A little later, the obvious crux, a thin crack with awkward body positioning and sweeping finger pinches stopped Whittaker's first red point attempt. He manages the individual moves freely and reaches the state.
After Sean Villanueva took the lead and worked on the Crux moves, Pete Whittaker secured the redpoint on the second attempt.
The two reached the summit of Aguja Guillaumet in the last light of day. By midnight they were back at camp. "It's an incredible place on the rock up there," enthuses Pete Whittaker, "but the mountains in Patagonia still scare me, so full concentration when climbing is the only option."
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+++ Credits: Cover photo Julia Cassou