In a final full of surprises, Toby Roberts, only 20 years old, secured the gold medal at the Olympic Games in Paris. The Briton won ahead of Japanese youngster Sorato Anraku and six-time world champion Jakob Schubert.
The news about the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris is presented by Mammut and Unparallel
The Bouldering & Leading The men’s final was more exciting than ever: First, the climbing greats Jakob Schubert and Adam Ondra behind and everything looked like a victory for one of the young athletes – especially Sorato Anraku – out. Then Jakob Schubert fought his way back to the podium with a tremendous performance in the lead and Toby Roberts really turned it up.
Ranking Bouldering & Lead Final Men
- Toby Roberts, GBR, 155.2 points
- Sorato Anraku, JPN, 145.4 points
- Jakob Schubert, AUT, 139.6 points
- Colin Duffy, USA, 136.4 points
- Hamish McArthur, GBR, 125.9 points
- Adam Ondra, CZE, 120.1 points
- Alberto Ginés López, ESP, 116.2 points
- Paul Jenft, FRA, 78.4 points
The Young Guns are in the lead
After the bouldering final, it looked as if the much-discussed generational change in competitive climbing had taken place. Four athletes from the new generation, Sorato Anraku, Colin Duffy, Toby Roberts and Hamish McArthur, had positioned themselves in the first four places.
Climbing greats Jakob Schubert and especially Adam Ondra were well behind. While the Czech climbing superstar's hopes of a medal had already been dashed in the bouldering final, the Austrian was at least able to dream a little.
After bouldering, it was obvious to me that I had already lost. But it was important to me to at least be able to put in a good performance in the lead.
Adam Ondra
Alberto Ginés López and the Frenchman Paul Jenft were also anything but satisfied with their performance. Neither of them ever really got into the bouldering competition and only got two Zone 2 and one Zone 1 point on the four bouldering problems. The Olympic champion from Tokyo and the eighth place finisher at the World Championships in Bern must have hoped for much more.
Sorato, Duffy and Roberts with bite and power
The American Colin Duffy was noticeably strong in the boulder final. He needed a few attempts to top the first problem, but the one-armed jump to the top underlined his power. He showed this again on Boulder 4, which he was the only one to top.
Toby Roberts also showed his skills and determination in bouldering. For example, on the very powerful boulder 68, which overhangs by 4 degrees. There he was the only one who was able to push himself over the roof and press himself into the target hold.
And the Japanese Sorato Anraku stepped onto the mats and immediately flashed the first boulder. What a statement in this strong field of starters! He needed seven attempts to reach the top of Boulder 2, but it was nice to see how quickly he could analyse and adapt to mistakes. On slab boulder 3, the 17-year-old was the only climber to make it to the top.
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Lead Finale: McArthur presents
A good half an hour after the bouldering final, Hamish McArthur was the first to climb the lead route. Why the Brit with the fourth best performance in bouldering? Because the start was in the reverse order of the qualification result.
The Briton got off to a good start. He climbed through the lower sequences in a good rhythm. He mastered the turn on small finger holes set up by the route setters without any problems. He only started to lose his strength when he was well over the 60 mark.
Colin Duffy was highly motivated to climb high. The 20-year-old, who won the World Cup in Chamonix this year and came sixth at the last Olympics, also climbed up to the blue section without any problems, but then fell out just before McArthur's highest point.
Magic Schubert Moment
After Paul Jenft, who was unable to clip in the black sequence due to a tactical error, Jakob Schubert came on stage. The Austrian, known for being at his best in competitions, was about to disrupt the youngsters' party.
With two minutes left, he reached the 60 mark, gave it another good shake and continued climbing. As if on autopilot, he climbed higher and higher and it was only on the second to last hold that Schubert's elbows were raised. The 33-year-old six-time world champion had quickly moved from fifth place in bouldering to the top of the rankings.
I am extremely proud that climbing is part of the Olympic Games for the second time and that I have a second medal.
Jakob Schubert
In an interview after the competition, Jakob Schubert said that despite his joy, he was already sad about one or two tops or boulders. "The bouldering round was extremely frustrating for me, there was a lot more potential."
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Roberts wins Olympic gold
Now only Toby Roberts and Sorato Anraku could spoil his game. But first Alberto Ginés López and Adam Ondra had their performances. Even though neither of them had a chance of a top spot, they still managed to put in some really strong lead performances with 92.1 and 96 points respectively.
Enter Toby Roberts: Like Schubert, the 20-year-old is considered a lead specialist with tremendous stamina. This was particularly evident in the top section of the route. On the last holds, he looked for different positions so that he could still pull further. Roberts didn't get as far as Schubert, but his points from the bouldering clearly put him at the top of the table.
When Japanese high-flyer Sorato Anraku started the route, many people expected it to be a top climb. The 17-year-old climbed as easily and economically as usual. However, he began to show some insecurities on the carousel. When he set the high hook after the 60 mark to continue climbing, he fell off the wall at this point, much to his surprise.
It took Toby Roberts a few moments to grasp his luck. It was only when his coach held up a finger to indicate that he had won first place and thus the Olympic gold medal that his emotions broke over him.
Content partner Olympic Games 2024 in Paris
The coverage of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris is presented by Mammut and Unparallel:
Mammoth is a Swiss outdoor company founded in 1862 that offers mountain sports fans all over the world high-quality products and unique brand experiences. For 160 years, the world's leading premium brand has stood for safety and groundbreaking innovation. Mammut products combine functionality and performance with contemporary design. With the combination of hardware, shoes and clothing, Mammut is one of the most complete providers in the outdoor market. Mammut Sports Group AG operates in around 40 countries and employs around 850 people.
Maximum grip, sophisticated designs and «hand-made in California»: The brand unparallel not only impresses with years of experience in the production of climbing shoes, but also relies on a sustainable philosophy - as well as on a selection of specially developed rubber compounds that are processed exclusively by long-standing, local partners.
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Credits: Cover picture Lena Drapella / IFSC