Janja Garnbret moves into the Boulder & Lead final with a large point advantage. She wins the women's lead semi-final. Jessica Pilz and Brooke Raboutou qualify in second and third place.
The news about the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris is presented by Mammut and Unparallel
The favourites delivered in the women’s lead semi-final, especially the Slovenian Janja GarnbretShe started last and performed confidently as expected. The 20-year-old Briton Erin McNeice and the 22-year-old Australian Oceania MacKenzie, who had already attracted attention in bouldering, delivered an almost surprisingly strong performance.
Garnbret and Mori almost perfect
Janja Garnbret once again withstood the pressure and climbed confidently through the lead semi-final. The differences between her and her competitors were apparent at various points along the route. Where some climbers had trouble finding a good clip position, she shook it off in a relaxed manner. In difficult places where other athletes were eliminated, she didn't wobble at all.
But it wasn't enough to get to the top and the 100 points. Garnbret was able to jump to the target hold, but he couldn't control it.
The Japanese woman had a similar experience Ai MoriThe lead specialist is probably Garnbret's biggest competitor in this discipline. Even though she didn't seem quite as confident after the 60-point mark, she continued to climb and worked her way up to the last hold on the tiny holds in the uppermost section of the route.
The Austrian also came into play as a potential medal contender with her strong performance Jessica PilzShe climbed relaxed through the first section and demonstrated how much strength she has with two campus moves further up. Pilz made it well over the 60 mark and qualified as second best in the overall ranking for the Boulder & Lead final.
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Grossman out, Raboutou on
Natalia Grossman started the lead route confidently. From the 30 mark onwards, however, she didn't seem quite so relaxed. Soon her elbows went up and she flew off. As a result, she had to worry about making it to the finals in eighth place. In the end, she had to settle for 11th place.
Her team colleague fared better Brooke Raboutou, who reached the last section of the route in a controlled manner and still quite fresh. With the fourth best performance in the lead and her strong performance in bouldering, she qualified as third best for the final on Saturday.
Korean Chaehyun Seo compensated for her 13th place in bouldering with her strong performance in the lead semi-final. She just managed to make it to the finals, coming in eighth.
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Neice and MacKenzie in form
Erin McNeice's performance was a real delight. The Brit flew under the radar until the Olympic Games. But in the lead semi-final she really turned it on and was the second starter to climb over the 60 mark. A strong performance that earned her a place in the final with the score from the bouldering.
Another athlete who seems to be outdoing herself in Paris is the Australian Oceania MacKenzie. She already achieved the fourth best result in bouldering. And she also climbed solidly in the lead semi-final.
When she reached the point in the blue sector, already somewhat tired, where other athletes were having trouble clipping, she didn't even stop, but climbed one or two more moves and secured valuable points.
These are the Boulder & Lead finalists
- Janja Garnbret, 195.7
- Jessica Pilz, 156.9
- Brooke Raboutou, 155.8
- Ai Mori, 150.1
- Oriane Bertone, 129.6
- Oceania MacKenzie, 124.7
- Erin McNeice, 123.7
- Chaehyun Seo, 116.3
Content partner Olympic Games 2024 in Paris
The coverage of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris is presented by Mammut and Unparallel:
Mammoth is a Swiss outdoor company founded in 1862 that offers mountain sports fans all over the world high-quality products and unique brand experiences. For 160 years, the world's leading premium brand has stood for safety and groundbreaking innovation. Mammut products combine functionality and performance with contemporary design. With the combination of hardware, shoes and clothing, Mammut is one of the most complete providers in the outdoor market. Mammut Sports Group AG operates in around 40 countries and employs around 850 people.
Maximum grip, sophisticated designs and «hand-made in California»: The brand unparallel not only impresses with years of experience in the production of climbing shoes, but also relies on a sustainable philosophy - as well as on a selection of specially developed rubber compounds that are processed exclusively by long-standing, local partners.
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Credits: Cover picture Jan Virt / IFSC