Multi-pitch routes are the ultimate discipline in climbing. Technique, equipment, planning and much more must be right in order to successfully and enjoyably climb a wall. We'll show you six tips that will inspire you to immerse yourself in the wonderful world of multi-pitch routes.
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The content specialist Fabian Reichle is himself an enthusiastic mountain athlete and enjoys being outdoors as often as possible. Benefit from the experience of Bächli Bergsport and take advantage of our expert advice. We are looking forward to your visit!
6 tips for multi-pitch climbing – Find out in this article
Climb several stages in a row up an alpine wall. Possibly attaching safety equipment yourself. In the vertical, only rock and a lot of air under your bottom. Multi-pitch climbing is sometimes the supreme discipline of climbing and perhaps of mountaineering in general.
A lot - if not everything - has to be mastered beforehand; be it technique, planning or mental attitude. This is a deterrent. As a result, many sport climbing enthusiasts approach the world of multi-pitch climbing rather cautiously. But even if a lot is required, with a few tips and tricks and practical tips, this approach works better and more safely.
Tip No. 1: Just start
Nobody expects you to tackle the most difficult north faces with 15 pitches at grade XNUMX. Just start. The rule of thumb: take the grade you feel comfortable with in the crag and subtract two from it. Then look for a route that is moderately long, moderately difficult and moderately alpine.
Rule of thumb: Take the level of difficulty at which you feel comfortable in the climbing garden and subtract two from it for the first multi-pitch tour.
So-called Plaisir routes are almost a guarantee for a first positive multi-pitch experience. The name says it all: the routes are usually very well secured and have solid stands and comfortable abseiling slopes. A good overview of Plaisir climbing guides can be found in the Bächli shop.
Tip No. 2: Planning and more planning
Are you used to driving to a climbing spot, studying the topo briefly and then starting the route? Forget that for your multi-pitch tour. An alpine climbing route often does not follow a consistently clear bolt line. The bolts are further apart and the route is not always obvious. Sometimes the logical route is the more difficult one. In principle, do not rely on a single topo. Also observe the situation on the rock in general, find out about typical mistakes, read current reports.
And don’t forget the environmental factors. Especially the weather: You can't just abandon a multi-pitch tour without thinking about it. Let's say a thunderstorm is coming, you can quickly find yourself in serious trouble. Find out, for example, when the sun will hit the wall, when it will leave it again, and so on.
The planning also takes place while climbing. Multi-pitch routes require flexibility, creativity and adaptive action.
The general rule is: Build plenty of buffer into your project.
Tip No. 3: Communicate correctly
Multi-pitch routes require precise and reliable signals. A classic mistake is misunderstanding the commands "stand" or "follow". This is particularly the case when wind, echoes or other climbers make communication difficult.
Make sure that you and your partner come to a clear agreement before starting the route. For example, you can agree that the command to stand will only be given when the belay station is completely set up and the person leading is safe.
It also helps to use visual signals such as pulling on the rope when acoustic signals cannot be clearly perceived. And remember that you also need to define this type of communication in advance.
Tip No. 4: Keep a cool head
The mental component is often underestimated by many multi-pitch novices. Several hours on the wall are physically exhausting and require constant concentration and coolness in potentially dangerous situations.
Remember that even the toughest climber and the biggest mental beast will reach their limit at some point. Long and strenuous routes can lead to exhaustion, which can impair your judgement and ability to react. In addition to the physical aspect - regular breaks, eating and drinking enough - the mental aspect is also essential.
Maybe you can learn relaxation or breathing techniques to clear your head? That's good. It will help you, especially when it comes to staying focused and making the right decisions to continue climbing safely.
Tip No. 5: Master your material and technique in your sleep
In a multi-pitch tour, everything is a bit more complex than in a sport climbing route. One of the biggest differences is the rope organization at the belay station. Here, it can quickly happen that the rope gets caught in a chaotic manner or twisted.
If the person following behind lets the rope fall uncontrollably to the ground or does not place it properly over their legs or shoulders, the result is a literal tangled rope. It is better to gather the rope in neat loops and organize them so that they can be easily pulled off. This prevents the rope from getting stuck when leading.
Video: Tips for rope handling at the stand
But it's not just the rope handling that can be tedious. When it comes to safety, there are elementary things you have to pay attention to on multi-pitch routes. When setting up belay stations, it's often observed that securing points are not redundant or are not optimally resilient. Of course, you want to avoid that at all costs.
A foray into the realm of climbing safety would go beyond the scope of this article, but remember that in multi-pitch climbs, the entire force of the fall may be on the belay. If the belay is not secured properly and the force is distributed redundantly, it can fail. The rope team falls.
With the tuber, it is almost impossible to stop a fall before the first intermediate anchor point. If you do not use the belay station as a redirect, you risk falling the entire length of the rope until you reach the first anchor point!
Tip No. 6: Take what you need
It's like a multi-day hike: light goes a long way. On a multi-pitch route, you want to be practical and carry as few kilograms as possible on your back. In addition to the usual climbing equipment, you need the following, or rather, you should pay attention to the following:
- ropes: A single rope or half ropes (double ropes), depending on the route and preferences. Half ropes offer more flexibility and safety in alpine terrain.
- harness: A comfortable and safe climbing harness is essential. This means it can have a little more padding and more loops than your sport climbing harness.
- climbing Shoes: At best, you can leave your ultra-aggressive bouldering shoes at home. Models in which you can climb for several hours are advantageous.
- Express sets: A set of quickdraws (at least ten to twelve pieces)
- Abseiling equipment: Belay device, Prusik loop, carabiner – depending on whether the exit leads via a rappel route.
- Carbine: Various screw carabiners and normal carabiners for setting up belay stations and for general use.
- Slings and cords: Various lengths of slings (120 cm, 240 cm) and cords for belay stations, self-belaying and abseiling.
Difficult access, but…
In conclusion, multi-pitch routes require an incredible amount of technical knowledge, climbing experience and alpine skill. And yet you will find that this type of vertical progression is not only incredibly appealing, but ultimately more accessible than you might think.
All you need is a suitable mountain for your project. Bächli mountain sports you will find a wealth of inspiring Guides for the whole of Switzerland – guaranteed to have a suitable route for you.
With serious preparation and the necessary respect, you too will soon succumb to the indescribable feeling of climbing in the middle of a gigantic rock face, practically just for yourself.
About Bächli mountain sports
Bächli mountain sports is the leading Swiss specialist store for climbing, mountaineering, expeditions, hiking, ski touring and snowshoeing. Bächli Bergsport currently offers its customers expert advice and high-quality service at 13 locations in Switzerland. Bächli Bergsport publishes on Lacrux at regular intervals exciting contributions to the topics climbing, bouldering and mountaineering.
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Credits: Cover picture Bächli mountain sports