Black Diamond, DMM, and Wild Country cams need no introduction. An unknown but very interesting alternative comes from the Basque Country: Totem Cams. Mountaineer Anna Truntschnig tested these camming devices in Indian Creek, Red Rocks, and Yosemite for the LACRUX community to see how well they perform in practice.
Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime.
Edward Whymper
Edward Whymper probably never imagined that about 100 years after his quote, the concept of safety in climbing would be significantly redefined: Ray Jardine developed the first active mobile belay devices (Cams/Friends) in 1977. This marked a milestone in the climbing industry. Climbing in difficult terrain became safer, without relying on fixed bolts or pitons.
It's hardly surprising that over nine manufacturers have jumped on the bandwagon and are currently dedicated to producing cams. Although each of these products pursues the same goal – enabling climbers to ascend safely on vertical terrain by arresting falls – they differ in shape, weight, price, and functionality.
Totem Cams in a four-week US test
I tested Totem brand cameras for you during a four-week trip to the USA and can already tell you this much: Tradklettern demands, but Totem delivers. Robust, versatile and absolutely reliable – Totem Cams have been my preferred belay device since our trip!
Here I'll tell you about my personal experiences and report on the most important advantages and disadvantages of Totem Cams when climbing in sandstone (Indian Creek, Red Rocks, Zion) and granite (Yosemite), and I'll explain why Totem Cams impressed me so much. A review from the mecca of crack climbing that goes beyond the conclusion of "great holding power".
First advantage: the flexible spring mechanism
Our first stop: Indian CreekCrack climbing at its finest! We were immediately taken under the wing of two Americans (thanks Jake & Jo!) and the "school of crack climbing" began. Even in the first few days, we learned something important: the power of Totem Cams lies in their flexible spring action.
While cams from other manufacturers tended to rotate up or down under rope tension in smooth, vertical cracks, every Totem Cam stayed exactly in the position we placed it in. This is a situation every climber desires – when looking up towards the next challenging climb and then down to double-check the correct placement of the last protection point. Thanks to their flexible spring mechanism, the Totem Cams always remained in the right position, and this flexibility also made them our preferred protection method in horizontal cracks.
Second advantage: Partial load possible
Totem Cams have a pretty cool feature: even when only two of the four camming segments are loaded, they hold reliably. The design, patented as a "cam device for climbing" (US Patent US 7,014,156 B2), means that the load is distributed perfectly evenly across each individual segment. This has proven particularly advantageous in irregular cracks in the Red Rocks and sets Totem Cams apart from other cam manufacturers. Even back home in Europe, for example on limestone, where decent holds are often hard to come by, I see this as a real benefit. You place a cam and you know: it will hold even in a less than ideal position.
Small but mighty – the narrow head profile of the Totem Cams
Totem Cams have a narrower head profile than other manufacturers, which is a direct result of their patented design. I'll explain the most important details of this patented design – warning, things are about to get a little nerdy.
No rigid U-bolt / no double axle
In classic cams, the tension wires and axles run inside solid side plates. This requires space – which is why the heads are relatively wide. Totem does away with these rigid side plates: Instead, the individual cams are "free" and actuated by flexible springs that meet in the middle.
Central force distribution instead of two bridges
Instead of two parallel struts, Totem designed a kind of "distributor" in the middle. This distributes the tensile force of the cables and replaces the wide metal housing. As a result, the entire head can be narrower.
Individual axes for each camera
Each camera is mounted separately and can be controlled independently. This saves metal between the cameras and allows them to be positioned closer together.
Flexible spring tension / no rigid connection
Because the spring tension is flexible, it does not need to be guided symmetrically or rigidly. This also reduces the component width in the head.
The result for us in practical testing in the USA: better placement in narrow, irregular cracks, such as in the Red Rocks, and the possibility of actively loading only two cams. This proved particularly useful when aid climbing in the Valley.
When in doubt, does it help out? Totem Cams in Yosemite Test
Last stop: Yosemite. Here things got technical – pinscars (hook scars from the early days of trad climbing) are anything but easy to protect. Especially when they flare out – that is, run in a funnel shape. Our American friends from Indian Creek had already warned us that climbing in the Valley isn't fun without enough offset cams and totem cams.
"When in doubt, aid it out," were her words. A saying usually heard differently among climbers ("When in doubt, run it out"). Offset cams work well in the valley, but Totems have also proven very reliable—especially under uneven loading. I never had the feeling that they would unintentionally slip out—unlike cams from some other manufacturers. When climbing technical routes in the valley, every good placement is worth its weight in gold—and I was incredibly grateful for every Totem cam on my harness.
Disadvantages? Sure – no review is without criticism.
Weight Totem Cams are not lightweight. Compared to, for example, BD Ultralight, this is noticeable – especially with larger sizes (Totem Cam #2: 144g vs. BD Ultralight #2: 126g). And yes, they do appear a bit bulkier and therefore give the impression of taking up more space on your strap.
Handling during aid climbing: The slings are slightly longer than on other models, resulting in a greater distance to the gate. This isn't always ideal for technical climbing.
Size range: Totem doesn't cover the entire size range. For very small or very large cracks, you'll need to use products from other manufacturers. However, the set is sufficient for the most common sizes.
| Size | Range | Strength | Weight |
| 0.50 | 11,7-18,9mm | 6 kN | 69 g |
| 0.65 (blue) | 13,8-22,5mm | 8 kN | 75 g |
| 0.80 (yellow) | 17-27,7mm | 9 kN | 83 g |
| 1.00 (purple) | 20,9-34,2mm | 10 kN | 95 g |
| 1.25 (green) | 25,7-42,3mm | 13 kN | 109 g |
| 1.50 (red) | 31,6-52,2mm | 13 kN | 132 g |
| 1.80 (orange) | 39,7-64,2mm | 13 kN | 144 g |
Time for a conclusion
Totem Cams have won me over. Not just because of their holding power, but because they perform reliably where others fail. The confidence you want in your gear – that's what Totems give me. Sure, they're not perfect: a bit heavier, a bit bulkier, and the size range is limited. But they play to their strengths exactly where it counts: in demanding, technical terrain, under partial load, in difficult cracks.
As David Allfrey so aptly put it: "Everyone who has used them, loves them." I agree. Totem Cams – first placed, then loved.
About the author: Anna Truntschnig
Anna Truntschnig comes from Carinthia and discovered climbing in 2016 – and has been hooked ever since. What fascinates her about alpinism is its versatility: ice, mixed, rock – each discipline demands something different, there's always something new to learn, and that's precisely what appeals to her. For three years, Anna was part of the Austrian Alpine Club's (Naturfreunde) alpine team, culminating in an expedition to Kyrgyzstan. For Anna, climbing combines a thirst for adventure, the joy of movement, and camaraderie – because the most beautiful moments are those shared together.
+ + +
Photo Credits: Anna Trunschnig