What if the safety of a belay device with a locking function could be combined with the rope handling of a tuber? This is exactly what Petzl has achieved with the Neox. The new belay device has a significantly better rope flow, which enables rope to be dispensed very quickly and comfortably.
With their new backup device called Neox is Petzl a big success. Why? Because they have managed to further develop their classics Grigri and Grigri+ to where the greatest benefit arose for the end user: rope handling.
The new Neox belay device has an integrated wheel, which improves the rope flow and thus enables quick rope distribution.
Neox: Rope handling amazes
After the postman finally delivered us the long-awaited Neox, we headed to the local climbing gym to try out the new belay device. The reputation that preceded the Neox, which would be released in mid-2024, was too tempting not to try the supposed new miracle weapon from Petzl yourself.
After a short warm-up on the bouldering wall, we put on our climbing harnesses and walk to the outside wall. A quick partner check and off you go. “As a long-time Grigri user, you really have to force yourself not to constantly reach for the device with your hand,” was the conclusion after the first two routes. “But the gasworks method is absolutely no longer necessary with Neox.”
We were surprised at how incredibly smoothly the rope came out of the device - and we were using a rather thick and older rope.
It doesn't take long until the first climber friends join us and of course don't miss the opportunity to secure a round with the Neox. Your conclusion is pretty much the same as ours: It's really ingenious how with the Neox you only have to hold the brake cable and guide cable and you don't have to constantly reach for the device before you dispense the cable.
Impressions from the first day of climbing with the Neox belay device
The gasworks method is a thing of the past. However, you should still keep the partner check. Instead of groping for the device while dispensing the rope, the entire focus is now on the climber. With the Neox, we never had the device accidentally jam when the rope was being dispensed. With the Neox, falls can be secured very softly. The release can be easily controlled, but the anti-panic function of the Grigri+ is not available here.
This is how the Neox security device works
As mentioned at the beginning, the new belay device from Petzl has an integrated wheel, which enables the rope to flow smoothly and therefore more comfort when belaying.
Despite this innovation, the Neox's blocking mechanism, like the classic Grigri and Grigri+, still works via friction or clamping cams. In other words: In the event of a fall, the movable roller presses on the blocking part, causing the rope to be clamped.
Small step in appearance, big step in application
Compared to its siblings Grigri and Grigri+, the Neox is slightly larger. The new belay device from Petzl is just 32 grams heavier. Not much has changed in terms of design either. One could almost say: “One small step in appearance, one big step in application.”
The Neox brake lever is slightly larger and also more ergonomically shaped. There is no anti-panic function like the Grigri+.
Optimized for lead climbing
The second time the Neox is used on the rock. We want to try out how it works in sport climbing and project planning, as Petzl has explicitly optimized its new belay device with blocking support for lead climbing.
What this means is shown to us almost more clearly on the rock than in the hall. Because outside, the belayer often faces additional demands depending on the terrain at the base of the wall, the course of the route or the protection. If, like the new Neox, you have the rope handling comfort of a tuber and the safety of a device with locking support, you can devote your unrestricted attention to the climber.
In addition, backing up with the Neox has become much easier. The gasworks method for quickly dispensing rope, which has become established with the two classics Grigri or Grigri+, is unnecessary here. The Neox heralds a new era in lead climbing with its combination of comfort and safety.
Which security device for what?
- Neox | Ideal for lead climbing: Inside, the rope runs over a wheel, which makes it even easier to dispense rope when belaying.
- grigri | Compact and versatile for lead climbing and top rope climbing: The Grigri is suitable for comfortable belaying as well as precise lowering in lead climbing and top rope climbing.
- grigri + | Optimized for top rope climbing, entry-level climbing and intensive use: The Grigri+ is equipped with a top rope mode for easier rope retraction and an anti-panic lever, making it perfect for getting started in climbing.
Petzl Neox: The most important things at a glance
- Safety device with blocking support
- Weight: 235 g
- Features: Compatible with single ropes from 8,5 to 11 mm
- Available colors: Orange, Gray, Black
- Materials: aluminum side panels, braking mechanism, stainless steel clamping cams and wheel, recycled polyamide lever