Olympia: is Alexander Megos in the final after all?

With a final rank of 9 after the qualification day, Alex Megos just missed the top 8 and thus the final. But the Bassa Mawem placed in front of him could be injured. So will Megos move up to the final?

UPDATE 18.56:XNUMX p.m .:

The regulations do not provide for Alex Megos to move up - not even if Bassa Mawem announced a withdrawal due to an injury. This has now been confirmed by several sources, including DAV competition climbing. Apparently the final would be held with only seven athletes. The question arises as to what the speed run will look like, because the athletes have to compete in knockout mode.


Original article:

In the night heat of Japan, the Olympic climbing day has just come to an end - the athletes are grooming their battered fingers, giving interviews and the officials are working. Or maybe not. In any case, no one has yet been able to answer us what happens if Bassa Mawem actually has to give up injured.

After a strong performance (5.45 seconds, Olympic record and thus 1st place), the Frenchman was on the final course in the combined classification - but then had to break off injured in the lead. Apparently he sustained a serious bicep injury. Nevertheless, thanks to his strong speed performance and a solid performance in bouldering, he would be in 7th place and thus in the final.

Two questions now arise

1.) Will Bassa Mawem have to abandon the games?

2.) If yes: then move on Alex Megos in his place after?

In any case, it would border on a miracle if Bassa Mawem were fit again in the next two days. He held his upper arm, visibly worried, as soon as he was back on the ground and said: "Je crois que je me suis déchiré le biceps" - he thinks he has torn his biceps. This is what it looked like: his upper arm seemed to lose tension with a jerk when he pulled a long grip on an underhand grip.

Here Bassa Mawem's biceps tendon tears

Alex Megos qualified in 9th place. He could move up into the top 8 if Bassa Mawem doesn't compete and the Olympic regulations allow for a move up in that case. It would also be conceivable that the final will be held with only seven athletes. On the other hand, the fact that the final race in speed will be held in knockout mode speaks against it - so two athletes have to compete against each other, which is not possible with seven athletes.

A corresponding request on our part at the IFSC has not yet been conclusively answered. We were only told that Bassa Mawem has not yet announced a withdrawal.

We wish him a speedy recovery.

+ + +
Credits: Cover picture IFSC

News

Japan dominates Bouldering World Cup final in Keqiao

The IFSC World Cup season kicked off this weekend in Keqiao, China. The international climbing elite competed at the Bouldering World Cup for the first time at World Cup level. Young Japanese talent Anraku Sorato took home gold in the men's competition, while Annie Sanders of the United States topped the podium in the women's competition.

Impressive solo first ascent on the northeast pillar of the Wildgall by Simon Gietl

On April 12, 2025, South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl made the first solo ascent of the Northeast Pillar of the Wildgall. The 300-meter-long mixed route Lumina (M7 A0) follows a striking, logical dihedral and offers varied passages that can be securely protected with friends.
00:19:52

The first 9A+? Adam Ondra attempts Fontainebleau's toughest project

You can't get more Fontainebleau in one boulder: Adam Ondra takes on the legendary sloper line Imothep Assis, a potential 9A+.

First Bouldering World Cup of the season in Keqiao: Info, program & live stream

The IFSC World Cup season starts with the first Bouldering World Cup from April 18 to 20 in Keqiao, China.

Japan dominates Bouldering World Cup final in Keqiao

The IFSC World Cup season kicked off this weekend in Keqiao, China. The international climbing elite competed at the Bouldering World Cup for the first time at World Cup level. Young Japanese talent Anraku Sorato took home gold in the men's competition, while Annie Sanders of the United States topped the podium in the women's competition.

Impressive solo first ascent on the northeast pillar of the Wildgall by Simon Gietl

On April 12, 2025, South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl made the first solo ascent of the Northeast Pillar of the Wildgall. The 300-meter-long mixed route Lumina (M7 A0) follows a striking, logical dihedral and offers varied passages that can be securely protected with friends.
00:19:52

The first 9A+? Adam Ondra attempts Fontainebleau's toughest project

You can't get more Fontainebleau in one boulder: Adam Ondra takes on the legendary sloper line Imothep Assis, a potential 9A+.