From October 17th to 19th, we participated in the Rock Master in Arco – a friendly competition steeped in history that kicks off the off-season for the participating athletes. The pioneering 1987 edition on natural rock laid the foundation for a climbing festival that today attracts the attention of the entire climbing community.
What is the Rock Master?
During the three-day event, everyone was invited to celebrate the »Vertical Thrill«. For 38 years, the adrenaline-fuelled, internationally acclaimed rock master Every year, the winners are crowned in the indispensable lead duel and knockout bouldering. Excitement and thrills – guaranteed!
The stadium beneath the Castello di Arco is located directly in front of the rock walls where the historic event was first held. The first winner of the format was none other than the legend Lynn hill, who secured the title four times in a row. In 1987, she was joined by the German Stefan Glowacz in the stands and was named the first Rock Master.
Raboutou secures victory in the lead
In the lead this year Brooke Raboutou and Adam Ondra climbed to the top to loud applause and won their respective duels.
However, the women’s qualifying round was already causing a lot of holding their breath: In the race against the Italian Laura Rogora became the two-time Olympic champion Janja Garnbret She was eliminated from the competition due to a false start, forcing her to compete directly against the American Raboutou in the quarterfinals. As a result, the three-time Rock Master winner unexpectedly exited the duel early.
Brooke Raboutou then prevailed against the German champion Anna Maria Apel and – in a head-to-head race – against the defending champion Jessica Pilz .
A significant victory for the 24-year-old, who, as the daughter of two Rock Master winners, took home gold. Thirty-one years earlier, her mother, Robyn Erbesfield, won the duel, and a proud 36 years earlier, her father, Didier Raboutou, shared the podium with Lynn Hill.
All results in the lead
- Adam Ondra (CZE)
- Filip Schenk (ITA)
- William Bosi (GBR)
- Yannick Flohé (GER)
- Hannes Van Duysen (BEL)
- Stefan Scherz (AUT)
- Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
- Giovanni Placci (ITA)
- Brooke Raboutou (USA)
- Jessica Mushroom (AUT)
- Anna Maria Apel (GER)
- Laura Rogora (ITA)
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Mei Kotake (JPN)
- Mattea Pötzi (AUT)
- Heloise Doumont (BEL)
Eighth Rockmaster Gold for Adam Ondra
In the men’s competition, Adam Ondra won in the semi-final against the Scotsman Will Bosi, while Filip Schenk the race against Yannick Flohe In the small final for third place, Flohé and Bosi fought a close neck-and-neck race until the roof, where Bosi pulled ahead and won the duel. Schenk and Ondra also made it unclear who would secure the title – they repeatedly overtook each other, creating a breathtaking finale for the men's competition with only two seconds difference on the clock.
Yannick Flohé defends his title in KO bouldering
This year, the women's bouldering duel was dominated by Slovenian Janja Garnbret – once again she clearly showed why she is so often called GOAT (greatest of all time) and took every single boulder in a flash go.
Anna Maria Apel and Brooke Raboutou shared second place.
Yannick Flohé once again proved that his flash on Foundation's Edge (8C) was no fluke. He defended his Rock Master bouldering title against a strong field and showed off another impressive flash in the final boulder.
Joining him in the stands were Belgian Hannes van Duysen, who thrilled the audience by being the only one to top the M3 Slab Boulder in his last attempt, and Italian champion Filip Schenk, who thus fought his way onto both duel stands.
Will Bosi was eliminated on the first boulder, but he created a great atmosphere by seemingly constantly asking the audience where the crimps were on the boulder that started with a nasty dual-texture step.
All results in Boulder KO
- Yannick Flohé (GER)
- Hannes Van Duysen (BEL)
- Filip Schenk (ITA)
- Stefan Scherz (AUT)
- Adam Ondra (CZE)
- Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
- Giovanni Placci (ITA)
- William Bosi (GBR)
- Janja Garnbret (SLO)
- Brooke Raboutou (USA)
- Anna Maria Apel (GER)
- Jessica Mushroom (AUT)
- Laura Rogora (ITA)
- Heloise Doumont (BEL)
- Mei Kotake (JPN)
- Mattea Pötzi (AUT)
More events in the new »Climbing Village«
In the newly constructed Climbing Village, the event's expo area, young and old alike found what they were looking for when it came to highlights and innovations from the scene. Grips, ropes, harnesses, carabiners, climbing shoes, clothing, chalk, and climbing guides. A climbing area for the youngest vertical athletes, as well as skateboarding and slackline workshops, offered the perfect thrill for everyone until the duels began.
On stage, the event's moderators provided plenty of laughs and guided visitors through various presentations and challenges from the exhibitors.
Another premiere, alongside the newly constructed Climbing Village, was the FASI Chronos Clash, the speed competition for Italian youth in the U17 and U19 categories. At the Fun Bloc on Sunday, while the duels were still hotly debated, sport climbing fans could test their skills on the competition walls and compete against each other in a great atmosphere – just like the pros the night before.
A successful event with plenty of thrills, good cheer, and a fantastic climbing atmosphere.
You might be interested in:
- Babsi Zangerl climbs her first 9a+ in Arco | Bombardino
- "My proudest climbing moment so far" | Yannick Flohé ticks Ratstaman Vibrations (9b/+)
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Credits: Cover photo Lacrux