The Dawn Wall in Yosemite and Valhalla in Getu, China are currently the only multi-pitch routes in the ninth degree of French. There are also numerous other rock-hard big wall climbs. We have compiled a list of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world for you.
In the winter of 2014/15, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made climbing history when they completed the first free ascent of Dawn Wall in Yosemite Valley in 19 days. Since then, the line has been considered one of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world.
Four years later, after months of setting up and planning, Edu Marin succeeded in creating the longest overhanging roof route in the world with Valhalla. This mega line is also one of the heaviest of its kind.
The following compilation gives an overview of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world from grade 8b+. The list does not claim to be complete and is constantly being updated. Notes on lines missing from the list are welcome and can be communicated in the comments field. More information on the selection of the following routes can be found after the list.
Most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world | Status 25.05.2023/XNUMX/XNUMX
City | Length | route name | area | first ascent | First redpoint ascent |
a+ | 600m | Truenu | Picos de Europa | Eneko and Iker Pou in October 2024 | |
9a + | 455m | Valhalla | Getu | Edu Marin, Francisco Marin & Alex Marin | Edu Marin on 20.03.2019/XNUMX/XNUMX |
9a | 180m | Wu Wei | Val Nuvola | Alessandro Zeni & Riccardo Scarian | Alessandro Zeni on August 16, 2023 |
9a | 920m | Dawn Wall | Yosemite | Warren Harding & Dean Caldwell 1970 | Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson from 27.12.2014/14.01.2015/XNUMX – XNUMX/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c + | X | Project Llama | Laserz south wall | David Lama | Louis Gundolf |
8c + | 200m | Rainbow | Montserrat | Armand Ballart & German Folch 1979 | Edu Marin on 09.10.2020/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c + | X | Already | Rätikon | Michi Wyser & Andres Lietha on 12.09.1992/XNUMX/XNUMX | Fabian Buhl on November 27.11.2019, XNUMX with Andres Lietha |
8c + | X | Nirvana | Lofer stone slab | Alex Huber single-handedly in 2012 | Alex Huber & Michi Althammer on September 09.09.2012th, XNUMX |
8c + | 220m | Roctrip | Drasnice | Klemen Bečan alone in 2014 | Klemen Becan in May 2018 |
8c + | 250m | Lurgorri | Naranjo de Bulnes | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou in early summer 2006 | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou on 13.08.2006/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c / + | 270m | Sauve Qui Pleut | Fionnay | Samuel Ometz with Michael Kimber, Fabian Borter, Katherine Choong, Andy Winterleitner and Werner Luneau | Samuel Ometz 2021 |
8c / + | X | Way through Hedi's Kaiserschmarren | Gesause | Michi Kemeter single-handedly | 2018 first redpoint in 10 days with Stef Filzmoser, 2020 first 1-day redpoint with Chrisi Pichler |
8c | 100m | Don't slip and fall if you can jump and fly | Verdon | Michi Kemeter solo in 2014 | Michi Kemeter Solo on December 5.12.2017th, XNUMX |
8c | 150m | Solo per vecchi Guerrieri | Vette Feltrine | Maurizio Manolo Zanolla and Federico Gorda in the summer of 2006 | Maurizio Manolo Zanolla in the summer of 2006 |
8c | 510m | orbayu | Picos de Europa | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou 2009 | |
8c | X | Wogu | Rätikon | Beat Kammerlander on November 30.11.1996, XNUMX | Adam Ondra on July 26.07.2008, XNUMX with Pietro dal Prà |
8c | 600m | rayu | Picos de Europa | Iker Pou, Eneko Pou & Kirco Cerda 2020 | Iker Pou, Eneko Pou & Kirco Cerda in September 2020 |
8c | 160m | Hosanna | Verdon | Patrice Glairon-Rappaz | Cédric Lachat on 22.10.2016/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c | 120m | Kampfzone | Rätikon | Beat Kammerlander 2012 | Beat Kammerlander on November 14.08.2017, XNUMX |
8c | 350m | spomin | Paklenica | Silvo Karo, Janez Jeglič & Franček Knez 1984 | Luka Kranjc 2017 |
8c | 220m | Seventh Direction | Rätikon | Alex Luger in summer 2018 & 2019 | Alex Luger on 06.08.2022/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c | 280m | ordeal | Schartenspitze, Hochschwab region | Michi Kemeter, Stefan Lieb and Jo Friedl | Michi Kemeter with Paul Kiefer 2017 |
8c | 175m | Ganesha | Lofer stone slab | Fabian Buhl in autumn 2015 | Fabian Buhl alone in the summer of 2016 |
8c | 550m | Flight | Lauterbrunnen Valley | Roger Schäli, Michel Pitalka, Markus Iff, Bernd Rathmyr, Mäx Grossman & Stephan Eder 2006-2009 | Alex Megos with Roger Schäli, Frank Kretschmann and David Hefti from June 4th to 8.06.2014th, XNUMX |
8c | X | weatherbuck | Wetterbock wall | Alex Huber single-handedly in September 2013 | Alex Huber on September 18.09.2014, XNUMX with Michael Althammer |
8c | 150m | Zembrocal | Réunion | Caroline Ciavaldini, Sam Elias, Yuji Hirayama, Jacopo Larcher & James Pearson 2013 | |
8c | 500m | PanAroma | Western pinnacle | Gerhard Bauer, Walter Baur & Erich Rudolph 1968 | Alex Huber on 26.07.2007/XNUMX/XNUMX |
8c | 700m | Mora Mora | Tsaranoro Atsimo | Francisco Blanco & Toti Vales 1999 | Adam Ondra 2010 |
8b + / c | Kiss of Fire | Hundswand, Hochschwab | Michi Kemeter with Dominik Ganster in Feb 2022 | ||
8b + / c | 120m | Mentre mi Hagillum | Mont Rebei | Ignasi Miralpeix Llobet and Gil Furriols in Spring 2015 | Michi Kemeter with Rudy Cassan in February 2018 |
8b + | 500m | Nice view | Western pinnacle | Alex Huber alone in the winter of 2000 | Alex Huber on 18.07.2001/8/XNUMX, difficulty originally XNUMXc |
8b + | 150m | Golden Shower | Verdon | Stefan Glowacz and Christian Schlesener 2004 | Stefan Glowacz 2012 |
8b + | 400m | Never ending Story | Rätikon | Beat Kammerlander 1990 | Beat Kammerlander on November 7.9.1991, XNUMX |
8b + | 450m | Lev Leve | Pico Cao Grande | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou 2018 | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou 2018 |
8b + | X | bread and games | Thumbnail | Peter Gasser and Wolfgang Tonninger 2012 Groundup | Michi Kemeter with Andi Spitaler in August 2019 |
8b + | The Noble Paleness | Michi Kemeter | Michi Kemeter with Mathias Tauchner in September 2018 | ||
8b + | Styrian Edelweiss Woodpecker | Mürztal Alps | Michi Kemeter with Nora Weidinger 2018 | ||
8b + | 500m | Zunbeltz | Picu Urriellu | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou 11.10.2003 | |
8b + | 870m | The nose | Yosemite | Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore 1958 | Lynne Hill 1993 |
8b + | X | Dihedral Wall | Yosemite | Ed Cooper, Jim Baldwin & Glen Denny 1962 | Tommy Caldwell 2004 |
8b + | 880m | Magic Mushroom | Yosemite | Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 1972 | Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong in May 2012 |
8b + | 200m | History without Fin | Petit Clocher du Portalet | Didier Berthod & Francois Mathey 2001 | Seb Berthe & Siebe Vanhee in August 2021 |
8b + | 350m | The End of Silence | Fire horn | Thomas huber | Thomas Huber 1994 |
8b + | 240m | The Emperor's New Clothes | Wilder Kaiser | Stefan Glowacz 1994 | Stefan Glowacz 1994 |
8b + | 200m | Silbergeier | Rätikon | Beat and Conny Kammerlander 1993 | Beat Kammerlander 1993 |
8b + | 300m | Zahir | Wendenstöcke | Iwan Wolf and Gunter Habersatter 1996 to 2004 | Ivan Wolf and Gunter Habersatter 2006 |
8b + | 250m | Carnet d'address | Rocher du Midi | Yann Ghesquier in June 2010 | Yann Ghesquier in June 2010 |
8b + | 300m | Yeah man | Gastlosen | Francoise Studemann & Guy Scherrer | Josune Bereziartu & Rikar Otegi 2004 |
8b + | 240m | Tarrago | Montserrat | David Tarragó, Raul Ballesteros, Dani Fernandez, Xaver García & Toni Castelló 2002 | Iker Pou & Eneko Pou in November 2013 |
Selection and delimitation criteria
We have attempted to compile the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world. Try because the difficulty of long climbs is often influenced by various factors, which makes it challenging per se to compare and rank individual routes.
We based our list of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world on the climbing difficulty. This in the knowledge that extreme high mountain routes in the Himalayas such as Eternal Flame (7c +) or very serious high alpine big wall routes such as Odyssey (8a +) in the Eiger north face are not listed, although they are only reserved for the world's best climbers .
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Credits: Cover Photo Brett Lowell / Red Bull Content Pool
Dachl north face, Gesäuse, path through Hedis Kaiserschmarrn 8c
https://www.bergsteigen.com/news/neuigkeiten/hedis-kaiserschmarrn/