Swiss climbing crew discovers new DWS sector with lines up to 8c

The DWS Mecca Mallorca has one more Psicobloc spot thanks to the Swiss climbers Philipp Geisenhoff, Marco Müller, Benjamin Weber, Benjamin Schelker and Flo Weber. At Cala Magrana they found a virgin rock ledge and opened six new routes there, including Poseidon's Kiss (8c).

«18 meters high, overhanging, quite handy and very aesthetic.» So paraphrases Marco Müller the ledge of rock that he Philipp Geisenhoff, Benjamin Weber, Benjamin Schelker and Flo Weber consider Cala Magrana discovered on the east coast of Mallorca. "The archway in particular, which leads to a separate cave, makes the spot a little paradise," he enthuses. In total, the five climbers from Switzerland have climbed five routes from 6c to 8c for the first time, of which Poseidon's Kiss the hardest is.

"We could hardly believe that nobody had climbed here before."

Marco Müller

Video: Deep Water Solo First Ascents in Mallorca

Tell me Marco, how did you discover this jewel?

We searched for new DWS spots on Google Earth. We then found a potential spot and checked out the rock. We were disappointed to find that everything was very brittle and the water wasn't deep enough.

When walking back, Philipp saw a grotto in the distance and walked past it without much expectation. The rock quality there was great and it also looked like nobody had climbed there before. So the next day we started cleaning and planning new routes.

The archway at Cala Magrana with the results of the Swiss climbing crew: Homerun (7b), Touchdown (7c+), Poseidon's Kiss (8c), Release the Kraken (6c), Tijuana Flamethrower (8a+) and Turtlehead (7a).
The grotto near Cala Magrana with the results of the Swiss climbing crew: Homerun (7b), Touchdown (7c+), Poseidon's Kiss (8c), Release the Kraken (6c), Tijuana Flamethrower (8a+) and Turtlehead (7a).

How long were you in Cala Magrana?

We were in Mallorca for two weeks in October, including four days in Cala Magrana. The rest of the time we climbed in the already developed areas.

    What fascinates you about deep water soloing?

    You feel extremely light and free with the DWS. You don't have a rope that gets in the way of your feet, nor the cliffs that interrupt the flow. Climbing so high above the water is also thrilling. Especially because you often can't check out the routes completely and have to climb on sight.

    How would you summarize your Mallorca trip in a nutshell?

    Awesome climbs with a great crew.

    That might interest you

    Do you like our climbing magazine? When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.

    In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.

    Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Naturally you benefit multiple times. How? You will find out here.

    + + +

    Credits: Cover picture Marco Müller

    News

    Professional indignant: Stefan Glowacz criticizes first climber for setting up from above

    Setting up alpine routes from above: Not possible at all, says Stefan Glowacz, but possible in exceptional cases, say Dörte Pietron and Daniel Gebel.

    Katherine Choong climbs La Fiesta de Los Metallos (8b, 200m)

    Verdon testpiece repeated: Katherine Choong repeats the difficult multi-pitch route La Fiesta de Los Metallos (8b, 200m).

    Sonnie Trotter wins 9a bet against Honnold and Caldwell

    Sonnie Trotter repeats the 9a route Spirit Quest and wins the Gentlemen's Race against Honnold and Caldwell.
    00:11:46

    Niky Ceria's silent hunt for Sardinian kinglines

    Join the quiet explorer and bouldering specialist Niky Ceria as he discovers new high-end boulders in Sardinia.

    Newsletter

    Subscribe to our newsletter now and stay up to date.

    Professional indignant: Stefan Glowacz criticizes first climber for setting up from above

    Setting up alpine routes from above: Not possible at all, says Stefan Glowacz, but possible in exceptional cases, say Dörte Pietron and Daniel Gebel.

    Katherine Choong climbs La Fiesta de Los Metallos (8b, 200m)

    Verdon testpiece repeated: Katherine Choong repeats the difficult multi-pitch route La Fiesta de Los Metallos (8b, 200m).

    Sonnie Trotter wins 9a bet against Honnold and Caldwell

    Sonnie Trotter repeats the 9a route Spirit Quest and wins the Gentlemen's Race against Honnold and Caldwell.