Top French climber Seb Bouin has given the climbing world a new 9b+ route: Wolf Kingdom. On November 14th, he was able to complete his tough project in Pic Saint Loup after one and a half years of planning.
“This project is so inspiring,” enthused Seb Bouin a year ago, when he once again worked on his new endurance hammer in Pic Saint Loup «It is definitely one of the best lines I have ever drilled in my life.» Since November 14th, it has been clear: Wolf Kingdom is no longer just some tough project, but a new 9b+ kingline.
I am proud and happy to bequeath such a route to the international climbing scene and the Pic Saint Loup area.
Seb Bouin
Ready for the climb
It became clear six days before the ascent that Seb Bouin was ready to complete his project and climb to the anchor without falling. In Têtard Parc, not far from Grenoble, he flashed the 8c route Le Dernier Têtard and scored Amicalement Blues (9a). Now all that was missing were the perfect conditions.
On November 14, the wind blew through the climbing area of Pic Saint Loup. "It was cold, but I knew that very low temperatures would be necessary to be able to climb the last section of the route," says Seb Bouin.
It's pretty rare to get the chance to bring a route like this to life.
Seb Bouin
Wolf Kingdom: An Important Turning Point
Seb Bouin describes Wolf Kingdom (9b+) as one of his best first ascents. And he is convinced that the line will attract many strong climbers: "I believe that due to the climbing style, it will be one of the most attempted 9b+ routes in the future."
The strong Frenchman, known for his incredible endurance, sees Wolf Kingdom as an important turning point in his climbing career. Being able to successfully complete such a big project and remain happy and positive throughout is an incredible feeling.
I think Wolf Kingdom is my second hardest climb. It feels a little easier than DNA, hence the grade 9b+.
Seb Bouin
Over 50 attempts in the first section
Wolf Kingdom combines the most difficult sections of the two routes Beyond (9a+) and Les Rois du Lithium (9b). First, you have to master a 9a section, which then leads to a 9a+. Bouin says he has done the first section alone more than 50 times.
And the last part of the route is really tough: "There are about 20 moves before the top where you can hardly clip the Exe. Here you just have to march through and find the flow for this strength endurance firework."
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- Seb Bouin: “After the most important crux I fell 11 times”
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Credits: Cover picture Sam Bie