In spring 2024, Belgian Seb Berthe managed to repeat one of the most difficult trad climbing routes in the world: Bon Voyage (9a, E12). In this article, Berthe reveals details of the ascent.
A report by Seb Berthe
Bon Voyage is this incredible route, first launched by James Pearson First climbed in early 2023 and around a year later by Adam Ondra After long months of reflection, James proposed grade 9a, E12, which Bon Voyage one of the most difficult, if not the most difficult, trad route in the world.
The route starts in the famous 8b+ trad crack Le Voyage (or Les voillage faurmes la jenaice) and then leaves the crack to traverse left into a smooth, impressive wall.
It is almost inconceivable that this wall can be climbed freely with mobile safety equipment.
It is almost inconceivable that this wall can be climbed free with mobile safety equipment. A big compliment to James Pearson, who with his vision and perseverance was the first to climb Bon Voyage.
The Key Passage
After leaving Le Voyage, there are some "moderate" moves; long moves on good holds but bad footholds. At the last rest point, you have to place the last belay device, a small blue totem cam, which is quite demanding while climbing. After that, the hard part begins: 12 extremely intense and complex moves that are very finger-heavy and end on a fantastic edge far to the left.
A few meters below the final edge there is a rock ledge, a 'guillotine'.
This section alone could probably be graded 8c or 8c+ and must be climbed well above the last protection. Adam Ondra said it was "probably safe" with a good belay partner.
However, a few meters below the final edge there is a ledge, a "guillotine", which is quite intimidating. I think that a fall at the wrong moment with a little too much rope in the system could well lead to landing on this ledge.
The Process
In total, I spent about eight sessions on the route. I first tried Bon Voyage for half an hour in April 2023, right after my flash ascent of Le Voyage. I immediately fell in love with the route and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024.
I immediately fell in love with the route and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024.
So I returned to Annot at the end of February 2024 - just a few days after Adam Ondra's lightning-fast ascent - with the firm intention of cracking the route! Despite very changeable weather conditions, I was able to work on the route for three sessions.
During the first session I tried to climb the route in lead to get used to the placement of the protection and the falls. I made rapid progress and by the third session I already felt like I could climb the difficult section in one go.
I made quick progress, but then I injured my little finger while pulling the key.
But then I injured my little finger during the key move, a wide pull to the left from a tiny mono bar. I suddenly felt a stabbing pain in my hand and forearm. Diagnosis: a slight strain or a small tear in the hand muscles on the palm. That brought the first trip to an abrupt end and I left Annot with frustration and a burning desire to return.
The return
Two weeks later I was back in Annot. My hand felt a little better, but was not completely healed. I could climb with four fingers without any problem, but as soon as I separated my ring finger and little finger, I felt the pain again.
An inner voice told me that I should try despite the doubts.
I wasn't sure if it made sense to seriously plan the route again. But the route stuck with me and the weather forecast was perfect. An inner voice told me that I should try it anyway.
I spent two sessions getting a good feel for the movements again and getting used to leading. To my surprise, it went very well. After a rest day, I felt ready to try "a muerte"!
After a day of rest, I felt ready to attempt “a muerte”.
I put in a solid performance that day and a climb through seemed realistic, but I fell at the crux. When I got back down, I noticed that I had a deep tear in the skin on my fingers in one of the holds. There was no way I could attempt the route again. I had no choice but to take two days off so that the skin on my fingers could heal.
The passage
On March 19, 2024, I returned to the wall after two days of rest. My motivation was at its peak. I really wanted to climb the route. My skin had healed somewhat, but I knew it wouldn't last long.
I knew I only had one chance. I had to give it my all.
While warming up, I tested the key pull on the static rope, but didn't dare pull too hard because the wound would immediately open up again. I knew I only had one attempt. I had to give it my all.
I was nervous because I knew it was possible, but I had to climb perfectly. I checked my equipment down to the smallest detail to make sure everything was perfectly prepared for the attempt. Finally, I put glue on the part of my finger where I got the cut the last time to protect it.
As I started climbing, everyone stopped to watch. The tension was palpable.
There were a lot of people on the wall (James Pearson had just arrived to work on a new project) and the atmosphere was incredible. As I started climbing, everyone stopped to watch. The tension was palpable. I gave the final instructions to my belay partner James Taylor, an Englishman who was working on Le Voyage - and off we went!
I climbed the first few meters effortlessly and quickly. I felt strong. After a few minutes I reached the last rest position, placed the last safety device with the best possible precision. Then I started the key passage, determined to give it my all. The cheers grew louder and louder.
Then I started into the key passage, determined to give it my all. The cheers grew louder and louder.
Now I was in the crux of the matter: I put my middle finger in the famous mono pocket, twisting it to position it in the best possible way. I immediately felt the glue on my finger coming off and the bar attacking my skin - but there was no time for thoughts! I pulled to the left, just catching the next hold with my fingertips. Now the real battle began. I knew exactly what to do, was precise in my movements, but it was hell. I had to fight with every move. My friends below me cheered me on as if they were carrying me to the top!
Then I reached the edge - the last tricky part in terms of risk of falling. Now I couldn't let myself get distracted any more, even though I knew I could do it! I made the last moves - and screamed with joy! I did it! The relief and happiness of having climbed this breathtaking line was overwhelming.
thanksgiving
A huge thank you goes to everyone who supported me: Soline, Jean-Elie, Mathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, Tonio Rhode, James Taylor, Franco Cookson, Jacopo Larcher and many others… Thank you!
The review
As James Pearson and Adam Ondra have said, I think Bon Voyage is 9a - even though it is a very specific route and difficult to rate.
My assessment of the sections according to Darth Grader:
8a+ (Route) – Medium Rest – 7A+ – Medium Rest – 7C+ – No Rest – 7A ⇒ 9a
Since I have no experience with E-grades, I can't comment on that. But I found that the risky and mental aspect definitely played a big role.
That might interest you
- Female power in Annot: Soline Kentzel climbs trad test piece Le Voyage (E10, 7a)
- Berthe and Parmentier climb Verdon classics until they drop
- Learn to trad climb: A crash course in 6 parts
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Credits: Pictures Soline Kentzel, Text Seb Berthe