About injuries and projects: Interview with Franconian Jura climber Heiko Queitsch

Heiko Queitsch, a climber from the Franconian Jura, has bolted and first ascended numerous routes and recently released a whole series of his still-open projects. In this interview, Heiko explains what these projects are, what they entail, and what potential first ascents can expect.

Heiko, please introduce yourself briefly. How long have you been climbing? How many first ascents have you made?

I am Heiko, a passionate climber from Franconian Switzerland. I have turned my passion into my profession: I am a climbing instructor with my Fresh Air Climbing SchoolI'm also a member of the teaching team for the German Alpine Club (DAV) and the German Alpine Club (VDBS) in the climbing instructor training program. This means I'm on the rocks seven days a week—either teaching courses or climbing and developing routes myself.

I made my first attempts at climbing at the tender age of 12 in 1993. Since then, I have been constantly searching for new routes and areas! I have climbed just under 500 routes (my goal is to complete this) and over 2500 boulders in FrankenjuraThen there are some in Europe, including many first bouldering ascents in the Swiss Tessin, (I estimate around 400). I'm also a passionate trad climber! I've been able to do some really cool cleanest ascents and, together with friends, introduced the "green point" system.

My absolute highlight was my hardest and most beautiful first ascent in the Franconian Jura, the route «The Sound of Silence» – a perfectly overhanging prow in excellent rock quality (difficulty level 8c/11-).

Editor's tip: Learn more about the ascent of The Sound of Silence in this short film

Why have you now decided to release some of your climbing projects?

Over the past 25 years, I've also handed over a few projects to friends and climbers. I feel like I always make them happy.

The main reason I'm releasing some projects is that I sustained a serious injury to my right hand three months ago. Specifically, I tore the flexor tendon in my middle finger while bouldering on a single-finger hole move. Because of this, it will probably be a while before I can get back to work properly. However, I haven't released all of them—I'd like to be able to make the first ascents of the ones that are particularly important and dear to me!

Some of the projects I've just released are ones I've already worked on for a while. I've tried some of them, but not others—unfortunately, there's always so much to do besides work! A few of them are simply too difficult for me, though, so I'd like to share them with others and give them a try.

We're sure to have readers who may be unfamiliar with the terms and practices involved in projecting a route. Can you briefly outline what climbing projects and their approval are all about?

Here in the Franconian Jura, we generally have closed projects. With open projects, anyone can try their luck. A closed project in climbing means that the person who discovered and established the route has the privilege of being the first to climb it. I think that's a good thing, because it gives everyone the opportunity to try out their creation and ultimately be the first to ascend it.

The degree of difficulty doesn't matter – otherwise, the stronger climbers could always benefit from others doing the work and reaping the "glory." Let's be honest: a first ascent costs money, work, and sweat. I think that should be rewarded – regardless of whether it's a 9a or a 6a...

What I personally don't like is when projects languish and aren't addressed. In those cases, I think it makes more sense to release them. On the other hand, if someone works on a project for years, tries hard, and just barely fails, that should be respected! Often, a lot of heart goes into it, and I don't want to take that away from anyone. No matter how difficult a project like that is. At least, that's my personal opinion!

What is the difficulty level of the climbing routes mentioned?

The projects I have now released will be in the soft 8b to 9a/9b range.

Where are the most important/exciting routes and what are they called?

I'm not a big fan of assigning names in advance. Every first ascent wants and should have the opportunity to incorporate their personal story into the name.

Here are the projects in detail:
• Loophole rock:
Start at "Cave Session," through the 50-degree sign, and then out on "Fährtenleser." I estimate the difficulty at around 10+/8b+.
• Boys Temple:
Super difficult entry followed by cool hole moves, probably 11-/8c.
• Luxer:
Project 1 – I estimate it's around grade 10; the start from the block could be a bit easier, maybe 10-10?
• Wachberg rock:
Start at "Wixfrosch," then turn right. Originally assigned to me by Bernhard Thum.
That will probably be something in the 10th grade.
• Terra Australis:
Project No. 45 and 46 in the Schwertner Guide (11th edition).
There have been some well-known climbers who have rated it as difficult but possible – probably in the upper 11th grade.9a+/9b?
(A friend of mine said at the time: “It’ll be a tenner at the most.” …)

Heiko, thank you so much for your time and thoughts! And get well soon, of course!

If you want to know more about Heiko and his climbing school, you can find all the information at Fresh Air Climbing School.

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Cover photo: Heiko Queitsch in Magnet, 7c; Photo: Frank Kretschmann