The two Belgians Nico Favresse and Sébastien Berthe conclude their European tour with a one-day ascent of the most difficult route on the Eiger: Odyssey (8a +, 1m).
Nico and Séb cannot be stopped. After the two of them the familiar within a very short time Alpine trilogy scored, by the way, routes like Headless Children chopped off, they caused a sensation on the Eiger again. An ideal weather window and a few days before the end of their planned trip, the two Belgians embarked on the most difficult route on the Eiger: Odyssey.
Three years ago I was on the route with Stephane Hanssens, but had to turn back on the thirteenth pitch because the route turned into a waterfall due to the weather.
Nico Favresse
The two of them started the Odyssey route with headlamps at 33 a.m. and reached the top of the 22rd pitch after around XNUMX hours of intense climbing.
We were completely exhausted, had cold but were happy to have made the free ascent of the route. Most of all, I was happy that I was able to climb the route completely without falling. What a brilliant route!
Nico Favresse
Nico as well as most Sébastien could redpunkt climb all pitches of the Odyssey route that day. The story of the one-day ascent by Nico and Sébastien also has its downsides. We will report more on this in the next episode of our Show BETA in cooperation with ActiontalkTV.
The Odyssey route was made by Roger Schäli, Simon Gietl and Robert Jasper Established in the years 2009 to 2013 and free climbed in August 2015 (team red point). A first repetition succeeded Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl in the year 2018.
Information about the route Odyssee in the Eiger north face
Route: Odyssey
Preparation: 2009 to 2013 Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli
First ascent: Robert Jasper, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl - August 2015 - Team Rotpunkt Style
Character: Very serious high alpine bigwall route in the Eiger north face
wall height: 1400 meters
Difficulty: 8a +
Itineraries History: Entry from the Eiger Glacier 2320 meters to the Wandfuß and over the classic north face (Heckmair route, 1938) to the Stollenloch. Continue over the overhanging Rote Fluh and the Czar pier until you get to about 3700 meters (see topo!)
Fuse: sporty with stainless M10 drills and partly in the "Trad Style" with hooks. It will be used to further hedge 2 sets Camlots. For emergencies, it is recommended to use a hammer, 2-3 knife hook and 2 Pecker. (Expo to E5!)
The Topo of the Odyssey route is available here.
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Credits: Cover picture Nico Favresse