The Swiss mountain guide and professional mountaineer Yannick Glatthard set a new personal best on the Salbit Westgrat a few days ago. He completed the 36 rope lengths of the world-famous tour on the Salbitschijen solo in one hour and 26 minutes.
On 1 July 2010, the Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold climbed the Salbit West Ridge in one hour and 35 minutes. A milestone, considering that experienced rope teams need 10 to 14 hours for the long granite tour. Recently Yannick Glatthard beat Arnold's long-standing best time by 9 minutes and reached the summit of Salbitschijen after one hour and 26 minutes of climbing.
Salbit Westgrat: Dream of a quick solo climb fulfilled
In November last year, Yannick Glatthard climbed together with Simon Wahli all three ridges in new record timeThe duo needed 1 hour 45 minutes for the West Ridge. This was also a very fast time, which, according to Glatthard, helped him better understand the significance of Dani Arnold's record. "The dream of climbing the West Ridge alone remained wishful thinking at this point."
The uncertainty, unpresentable passages and the risk have taken me far away from this dream. But everything comes in its own time."
Yannick Glatthard
As luck would have it, Glatthard was at the Salbit Hut with a customer a few days ago and unexpectedly had a day off. He wanted to do some climbing for himself and was able to borrow a second rope from a friend. "And so I suddenly had all the equipment for the west ridge together."
So he decided to go up to the start of the west ridge and see how it felt. It quickly became clear that his gut feeling was right. "When I arrived, I felt the motivation and desire to try it," says Yannick Glatthard.
First hectic and nervous, then flow state
He got ready, put on his climbing shoes, started the playlist and then the stopwatch. He climbed the first few meters hectically and nervously. So he slowed down a bit and found what is almost the most important thing in such ventures: the flow.
In the flow state, I felt like I was climbing on rails. Totally present, focused and free.
Yannick Glatthard
The professional climber says he deliberately increased his pace and took risks. At the same time, he climbed more slowly in other places and invested time in his own safety. "Every movement and every idea just felt right."
And so the young mountain guide left one tower after the other behind him and stood on the famous summit needle after just one hour, 26 minutes and 47 seconds.
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Credits: Cover picture Yannick Glatthard