Michael Piccolruaz had long been searching for the perfect line. With Chris Sharma's DWS test piece "Es Pontas" in Mallorca, the professional climber from South Tyrol has now fulfilled his dream of his very own kingline.
His schedule now has plenty of room for time on the rock face: The Italian professional climber Michael Piccolruz He is among the athletes who bid farewell to the international competition stage at the World Championships in Seoul. His first difficult ascent wasn't long in coming: at the end of October, the 29-year-old from Bolzano succeeded with »Es Pontas« (9a+) one of the most difficult DWS routes and most impressive lines in the world.
It doesn't get any better than this. This is THE king line in sport climbing.
Michael Piccolruz
"Es Pontas": legendary line with mega dyno
The undisputed kingline in the field of Deep Water Soloing (DWS) is almost 20 years old. Pioneer and adopted Spaniard [name missing] celebrated [date missing] in 2006. Chris Sharma The route was the world's first 9a+ deep single-water climb. Located in the climbing paradise of Mallorca, it gained fame through the film "King Lines" (2007). Since then, numerous professional climbers have repeated "Es Pontas" at the climbing spot of the same name – including... Jernej Kruder, Jan Hojer, Hannes VanDuysen, Jakob Schubert or Mejdi Schalck.
As a true test of strength and endurance, "Es Pontas" offers 20 meters of steep climbing. The route also features a legendary, wide dyno at a considerable height. Because an involuntary swim is practically guaranteed, this project above the open sea also requires reasonably good swimming skills.
Initial trials already in 2021 with Jakob Schubert
Michael Piccolruaz was also initially intimidated by the jump. In 2021, the 29-year-old first attempted the project, which he describes as a "lifelong dream." However, the process leading up to the successful ascent was anything but linear.
In initial sessions – partly together with Jakob Schubert The dyno was finally landed after many attempts, but proved significantly more difficult coming from below. The jump was eventually successful on the ascent – ​​but then the pump kicked in during the upper sequence. The traverse across small crimps and with a difficult arete is considered the most technically demanding section of "Es Pontas".
After every fall into the water, I thought: I just need one good attempt.
Michael Piccolruz
To get fit for the ascent of the entire line, Michael Piccolruaz accumulated climbing meters on other deep water solo (DWS) routes. With the repeat of »Alasha« (9b) in the bay Port de Soller In the autumn of 2023, the South Tyrolean proved to himself that he could compete in the difficult DWS lines: "That gave me the confidence to climb difficult routes high above the water."
My sole focus for this year's Mallorca trip: to complete the circle and climb the line.
Michael Piccolruz
Lifelong dream project for Michael Piccolruaz
2025 was the year Michael Piccolruaz dedicated himself entirely to "Es Pontas." Once again, the dyno proved challenging and wasn't successful on every attempt. Ironically, this very fact provided the South Tyrolean with the necessary composure. The perfect attempt came, and Piccolruaz climbed through the jump, the subsequent crux, and to the saving hold before the more relaxed topout sequence.
The last few easy meters were pure joy. […] When I stepped off the route into the sunlight, I could hardly believe it. A lifelong dream had come true.
Michael Piccolruz
That might interest you
- This is how Jakob Schubert climbs the ultimate deep water solo test piece Es Pontas | Video
- Chris Sharma on Deep Water Soloing Expedition
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Cover image credits: Christian Core