Menorca, the small inconspicuous sister of Mallorca, is little known as a climbing destination. Wrongly! Whether bouldering, sport climbing or deep water soloing - the rocks of the Mediterranean island have everything to offer. Anja from Transa Backpacking has tested the climbing areas of Menorca for us.
A guest post by Anja - Transa Backpacking
If you are looking for a destination that offers above all beautiful climbing off the beaten track, Menorca is the right place for you. When climbing, you mainly meet locals and hardly any other tourists. Many sectors are newly developed and some of the access routes are not yet set up so well - the rock is all the more untouched. You won't find worn rock on Menorca!
On the coast you can climb in limestone ... ... while sandstone can be found in the middle of the island.
For which type of climbing is Menorca suitable?
You should bring a bit of climbing experience already: In some areas, although lighter routes are set up, the nicer climbing starts at 6a / b and is rated quite hard. Most of the rocks on Menorca are relatively short, you will find rather climbing gardens with Einseillängen. A few multi-pitch routes have been set up for training purposes.
Top-climbing areas
Penya de S'Indi - Bouldering
The approach to the red boulder blocks in the middle of the island is easy to find and very short. The four blocks offer everything the bouldering heart desires: From Plattenboulder, Crimps and Slopers up to the five-meter-high Henkel holes wall.
Cala en Porter, sector Escalofrios - sport climbing
In the sector Escalofrios you find yourself on a wide ledge under a mighty roof. Above all, strength is needed here! The routes are very short and overhanging.
Llucalari area, Ses Penyes sector - sport climbing
The Ses Penyes sector is primarily about vertical climbing. The key passage: a large, slightly overhanging scale. A lot of power, technique, balance and concentration are needed here.
Highlight: Deep Water Soloing at Cala Rafalet
The unsecured free climbing over deep water is mostly known from Mallorca. But Menorca also has plenty of coastal cliffs for deep water soloing. Depending on how the wind is, the rocks are sometimes damp from the spray. Then you have to wait until the wind turns. If the sea is rough, it is difficult after a fall into the water to come back on land: A dinghy is then mandatory.
Equipment tips from climbing veteran Pesche Wüthrich:
Deep water soloing is best climbed with synthetic material shoes. The dry quickly again.
You can not use a normal chalkbag, because it is soaked through quickly. Either you take liquid chalk from the tube. Or you use a bag without inner lining, dry it after each attempt and refill some powder again and again.
Activities for non-climbers
Does not your travel companion climb? Or do your fingers need a break? No problem. One of the advantages of Menorca is that you can easily combine climbing and other activities:
The 180 km long Camí de Cavalls coastal trail is perfect for family walks or flowing bike tours. In the turquoise blue sea windsurfers, kayakers and surfers will find their fun. At the instagram-worthy dream beaches sun-seekers can relax well and find in the pretty town Foodies fresh fish and other Mediterranean delicacies.
Tips and tricks
That's how you inform yourself
Information about the climbing areas of Menorca is just as rare as the climbing tourists on the island. The classic tour guides focus on hiking and biker routes. For climbers, there is only the "Menorca Sport Climbing Guidebook" in English and Spanish. It describes 189 different routes and offers good maps and detailed information about the approach.
Otherwise, it is best to inform yourself directly to the local climbers. The scene is manageable and open.
So you come to the spots
Basically Menorca is small, many things you can discover on foot or by bike. Although buses connect the main places to get to the climbing spots, but you need your own vehicle. There are many car rental companies.
Here you come under
Menorca is well developed touristy and offers many accommodations: from apartments to hotels. Most of the climbing spots are located on the coast and around the island. Es Mercadal in the center of the island is therefore a good starting point for day trips.
Menorca is protected as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Wilcampen is banned all over the island and can result in high penalties. But there are official campsites.
So you are well equipped
Dense forests, steep coasts and barren plains - as versatile as the landscape in Menorca is, so changeable is the weather. You should be prepared for all cases. Especially important: Wind is not a rare guest in Menorca and it should not be underestimated.
Anja's packing list for climbing in Menorca
- Peter Bouldering Runaway
- Scarpa Drago
- Petzl Meteor
- Black Diamond Small Mojo Repo Chalkbag
- Tenaya Mundaka
- Petzl Boreo
- Wild Country Revo Belay Device
About Transa Travel & Outdoor
sex is the leading provider of travel, outdoor and mountaineering equipment in Switzerland and operates eight branches in Basel, Bern, Lucerne, St. Gallen, Winterthur and Zurich, the climbing shop in the climbing gym in Winterthur and Root and the online-shop!. Published on LACRUX Transa Travel & Outdoor at regular intervals exciting contributions to the topics of climbing and bouldering.
