Shortly after Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher also scored the crack test piece Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite Valley. In the article, the trad specialist talks about the complexity of the line, the perfect balance and how he deals with pressure.
Ron Kauks crack line Magic Line (8c+) is one of the most difficult of its kind in the world. In the first quarter of a century after the first ascent, only three climbers were able to repeat the route. This autumn, three more climbs were made within a short period of time. Most recently, Jacopo Larcher to solve the difficult puzzle.
Pure power is not enough
"I have to admit that I underestimated the complexity of the route at first and felt completely lost on my first few days," says Jacopo Larcher looking back. Magic Line is not the kind of route that you can just power through if you're fit enough.
Everyone has to find their own beta to solve these complicated sequences and climb perfectly to stand on the almost non-existent footholds.
Jacopo Larcher
"You have to find the perfect balance between pushing, pulling, having enough confidence, but not too much." You can feel great and still fall - or vice versa. This definitely makes the route a tough challenge for the mind. "You really just have to concentrate on the moment without thinking too much."
rollercoaster of emotions
When Jacopo Larcher had deciphered the crux and was feeling better and better at this point, he thought he had a good chance of being able to score the route soon. This was a fallacy, as it quickly turned out:
Setting the tiny belays definitely adds an extra level of complexity, and even when I was able to clear the crux almost every time I tried to lead, I kept falling at a different spot (twice at the top).
Jacopo Larcher
The trad specialist found the last few days of project planning to be a real rollercoaster ride. "I have to admit that I felt unjustified pressure, both from myself and from outside." He found it difficult to deal with it and be his best self.
It took some effort to get rid of this pressure. "But as so often, the key to success was simply enjoying the process and feeling lucky to be able to share it with good people and to be able to climb such a gem! Now I'm almost sad that it's over. This line and the process of climbing it taught me a lot and means a lot to me."
That might interest you
- Unstoppable: Connor Herson solves trad testpiece Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite
- Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl repeat difficult multi-pitch route The Gift (8c, 350m)
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Credits: Cover picture Babsi Zangerl