Double success in Gimmelwald

The Swiss Jonas Utelli succeeds in the first ascent of No Fear of Beer (9a+) in the Swiss hard mover mecca of Gimmelwald. Dimi Vogt completes the double send with a repeat of Schwarz Mönch (9a).

Jonas Utelli, one of the big young hopes in the Swiss elite squad, was able to do so on Monday in Gimmelwald No Fear of Beer (9a+) first ascent. The 9-year-old explains that his new line is the logical extension of the Oblivion route (20a). “Instead of stopping at the Renardo Rules stand, you hang on to Schwarz Mönch (9a).”

Time windows for projects are closing

Since Jonas Utelli will soon be joining the top sports RS, he wanted to use the weather window from the beginning of the week for his Gimmelwald project. His teammate feels the same Dimi Vogt: “For once I’m skipping university because this might be the last chance I have left to climb my Schwarz Mönch project.”

It was supposed to be our day. After a demonstration of power, will and really good climbing, Jonas is the first to reach the top of his project.

Dimi Vogt
No Fear of Beer (9a+): This is how Jonas Utelli's new route runs in Gimmelwald.
No Fear of Beer (9a+): This is how Jonas Utelli's new route runs in Gimmelwald.

Inspired by the young wild ones

Deeply impressed by the performance of the 20-year-old Utelli, a little later Dimi Vogt also tied himself into the rope for a go in Schwarz Mönch. «I'm trying to learn a lesson from Jonas' cheeky and aggressive climbing style.

This strategy seems to be working, after a big fight I find myself overjoyed at Schwarz Mönch's top.

Dimi Vogt

After his successful climb, Vogt said he hopes to be able to learn a thing or two from the young wild ones in the future. “And if I can contribute some experience, I’ll be very happy.”

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Credits: Cover picture Jonas Utelli

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