Double gold medal awarded in Wujiang – How did it happen?

Last weekend, the second IFSC World Cup of the 2025 season took place in Wujiang, China. Anraku once again topped the podium in the men's competition. The women's competition saw a rare result: Erin McNeice and Seo Chaehyun shared the gold medal.

From April 25 to 27, the World Cup medals in the lead and speed disciplines were fought for in Wujiang. A head-to-head race that is hard to beat was fought Seo Chaehyun and Erin McNeiceThe two were crowned with a gold medal yesterday, a very rare occurrence. But how did this special constellation come about?

Seo Chaeyhun shared the gold medal with Erin McNeice in Wujiang
Seo Chaehyun shared the gold medal with Erin McNeice in Wujiang. (Image Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC)

Both Briton McNeice and South Korean Seo reached all the top climbs on their way to the final. While neither climbed a top climb in the final, they both reached hold 41, meaning they were tied again. In such cases, the climbing time required for the final route is decisive. However, both athletes climbed the same time, down to the second: 4:26 minutes. Therefore, a separation based on this special rule was not possible.

I consciously tried to climb fast, but obviously not fast enough. Still, it was a lot of fun, and I really enjoyed the fight.

Erin McNeice


Anraku cannot be stopped

In the men's competition, what we observed last season seems to be confirmed. The Japanese Sorato Anraku dominated the action. He won gold at the first Bouldering World Cup of the season a week ago, and thus once again topped the podium in Wujiang.

Japan's Sorato Anraku is unstoppable_Image Nakajima Kazushige - IFSC
Japan's Sorato Anraku is unstoppable. (Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC)

My goal isn't the overall World Cup victory in 2025, but rather the victory in all individual World Cups. That makes the former unnecessary.

Sorato Anraku

His compatriot Neo Suzuki and the Spaniard fought for second and third place Alberto Gines LopezAs if the women's final didn't already have enough surprises in store, the men's final also faced an unusual situation. Suzuki had to attempt the final route a second time because an appeal regarding the belaying was upheld. Suzuki remained unfazed and climbed further than Gines Lopez with a 40+ hold, securing the silver medal.

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Credits: Cover picture Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC

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