The Canadian climbing mecca of Squamish has a new tough trad route: The Shark (8b+). Contrary to what the route name might suggest, the first ascent was not like a shark tank. Quite the opposite: Didier Berthod and Stu Smith generously let Connor Herson go first.
Most of the time, new climbing projects are closed, are planned by the developers, are eventually climbed free and then repeated. The situation was the other way around with The Shark (8b+), a new tough crack line on the Grand Wall of the Chief in Squamish backpack.
Stu Smith opened the route between 2015 and 2020, but did not consider it essential to be the first to free climb his line. The Swiss crack specialist shared this view Didier berthod, who the young crack Connor Herson invited me to try it. The only condition (and probably not entirely serious) was that there was no flash. That would have been too humiliating.
The Shark: A story of friendship and magical sharing
The young high-flyer Herson, who last summer in Squamish briefly repeated the hardest cracks, was obedient. In the end, however, he only needed two sessions for the first free ascent of The Shark (8b+). Around two weeks later, on August 6, just on his birthday, Didier Berthod also gave himself the gift of a climb.
The Swiss climber's approach of offering the first ascent to someone else surprised many in the climbing community. Didier Berthod answered the question why as follows: "Personally, I thought it was important not to commit myself to a position that could prove sterile. Especially since the crack was not opened by me, but by Stu Smith, who himself did not attach any importance to being the first to free climb a route."
Only friendship and the magical sharing of passion should really count.
Didier berthod
Mutual inspiration
Didier Berthod explains that the reason he invited Connor Herson to try the route had a lot to do with his admiration for the young climber. Unfortunately, they didn't meet when the latter had done so well in Squamish last summer. "But I really wanted to meet him. There aren't that many people who are really keen on hard crack routes, and his ascents of Destiny and Cobra were so impressive."
The time spent together on the rock was a real pleasure, says Didier Berthod, and he can hardly stop raving about it: "His talent is really extraordinary."
There is no doubt that Connor Herson will have a special place in future books dedicated to the history of trad climbing.
Didier berthod
In addition, it was also great to be able to clip the anchor myself a few weeks ago. "This route is really amazing and in terms of quality and difficulty is on about the same level as Cobra or Destiny, even if their style is very different."
That might interest you
- Didier Berthod frees hard-hitting crack line in Squamish
- Badass ticklist: Connor Herson repeats Squamish's hardest cracks
- Does Connor Herson make Empath (9a +) the most difficult trad climbing route in the world?
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Credits: Cover picture Victoria Kohner-Flanagan