The Swiss climber and crack specialist Didier Berthod manages the pink point ascent of his long-term project in Squamish, Canada. His new crack line, Crack of Destiny, is likely to rank at the top of the world's most difficult trad lines.
Didier berthod has the Canadian climbing Mecca Squamish backpack brings a new trad test piece: Crack of Destiny. The day before yesterday he achieved an important milestone, the pink dot ascent of the fine and extremely difficult crack line. Of course it is "the big deal" to place the fuses during the inspection, says Didier Berthod and adds: "I'll be back soon to do a few tests."
"It was love at first sight. So there it was, that perfect splinter crack I had been dreaming of for so long."
Didier berthod
Crack of Destiny - a long journey
Last year, Berthod became aware of the crack thanks to a picture in the Squamish climbing guide and was thrilled when he inspected his project on site for the first time: "Everything was perfect, the surroundings, the view, the ledge." Even the hour-long climb contributes to this, as it gives you a break from the crowds.
From then on, the Swiss crack specialist spent a lot of time in the line. "30 days last season, six days this year." Being able to climb the line means a lot to Berthod, which also has to do with his Squamish past.
"Until the day before yesterday it was like I'd never walked off the chief with an inspection in my pocket. And this has been the case since 2005 when I tried Cobra Crack - almost 20 years!»
Didier berthod
The name is program
Many meanings could be derived from the route name Crack of Destiny, explains Didier Berthod. "One of them is to emphasize my relationship with crack climbing." And this is definitely special with Berthod.
In 2005 he started projecting the notorious Cobra crack. When a knee injury prematurely ended this project of the Valais exceptional climber, he disappeared from the scene practically overnight and traded for the next 12 years Climbing harness against cowl.
Crack of Destiny: Harder than 8b+
Didier Berthod answered the question about the rating of his latest crack creation somewhat evasively by suggesting 5.14 on the American scale - and thus a range from 8b+ to 9a.
"Crack of Destiny seems harder to me than just a 5.14a, but I can't be more specific."
Didier berthod
Berthod's comparison with his destiny line, the Cobra Crack, allows for an even more precise classification: «Crack of Destiny seems to me to be a bit more difficult than You-Know-Who, but I'm aware that it's a bit cheeky, saying this as I still haven't crossed the line!"
What is certain is that Didier Berthod has breathed life into a new mega line with Crack of Destiny, which will not only become a new trad test piece in Squamish, but will also not shy away from comparison with the world's most difficult crack lines - on the contrary.
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Credits: Cover picture Didier berthod